The Historical Sew Monthly is a collection of challenges organized by The Dreamstress on her blog. Each year since 2013 she has offered inspiration and motivation for costumers at every level from true beginner to expert. I joined the challenge facebook group in 2014 when it was still called the Historical Sew Fortnightly as the challenges were due every two weeks which was in itself a challenge! But I learned so much and stretched myself and completed 27 challenges that first year.
The challenges have been modified to one each month and can be completed in any order that suits your schedule. While I have been sewing in 2021 I have been neglect in uploading my photos and blog post links to the facebook albums. So I have been doing that this past week and realized that my make for the October Challenge - Orange was out of the time limit for the HSM which is 1938. I just couldn't let that happen and scoured my list for future projects that could fit in the time I had left in 2021 and were Orange. This is the ultimate challenge!
One of the makes planned for 2021 was a Spectator Coat and a cloche hat. As I led a very whim-directed sewing journey in 2021, the coat and hat have been moved to 2022. I have previously made Lady Edith's Bow Cloche from a pdf pattern assortment offered by eVINTAGE on Etsy. I'll share a link:
I've made several hats from this group of patterns and they are an easy make with lots of possibilities for both historical and modern wear.
I'm inspired by a vivid orange floral and pearl collar I found in a bin at a shop in the Fabric District in Los Angeles after Costume College.
Then one lucky day these three 19" by 50" screen printed panels popped up in a costumer's destash group on facebook. I immediately could envision these panels on the sleeves, collar, and lower hem of a spectator coat and there was just a touch of orange that would be wonderful with a coordinating dress with the orange and pearl collar. The panels were the right price and I snapped them up. I already have sage green suede shoes and I think orange gloves would be smashing! So that's my dream!
The brim is sewn and the seam allowances clipped and trimmed and pressed.
The brim is placed and pinned and then basted to the side band. Since the lining will fit inside the hat with wrong sides together, they are pinned right sides together and sewn leaving an opening for the hat to be turned right side out. Then the small opening is sewn closed by hand.
To add a bit more color and interest to the brim of the hat I've covered button blanks with the matching ribbon. I decide the buttons are highlighted in this area of the brim without brown swirls and will be a nice offset when the pearl collar is placed on the dress.
Ok, I'll admit it! Now that this hat is finished I'm absolutely excited to create the dress and spectator coat! But I'll be good and finish the project already on the sewing table. But here are some finished hat photos for you:
Would you ever imagine what color this would be if you saw an historic 1920s black and white photo?!
Historical Sew Monthly - October 2021
Orange - It's the final color to be covered by a color challenge! Make something orange.
What the item is: Cloche Hat
How it fits the challenge: Portions of the fabric and the buttons and bows are orange.
Pattern: Lady Edith's Bow Cloche by eVINTAGE on Etsy
Notions: Interfacing, button blanks, ribbon
How historically accurate is it? Created from an original pattern circa 1920s by Ruth Wyeth Spears
Hours to complete: 3 hours
First worn: For a project for 2022
Total cost: $4
Historical Sew Monthly - 2021
January - Joy