The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #12 - Re-Do

December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges. - The Dreamstress

Finally!  My December 2015 Challenge and my 39th completed Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge!  But it almost didn't happen....

 

In the spirit of keeping things simple I decide to add to what was my greatest challenge in all of 2015 - Out of Your Comfort Zone.  This was the June 2015 Challenge and I made my first-ever-and-scared-to-death-to-do-it Regency gown.  I wore it to Costume College that summer and even taught a class wearing the gown since I was teaching how to make ribbon flower pansies and I had decorated my hat with those flowers.

June 2015 Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge - Our Of Your Comfort Zone

 

This is the blog post for that Challenge:

http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2015/09/historical-sew-monthly-challenge-6-out.html

 

My inspiration for this Regency gown was an ensemble from the Kyoto Costume Institute.

 

There may be a day where I will encourage my husband to join me in this era, but that day is not now.  I do, however, want to create a Spencer - a short jacket. The pattern I used for the gown is a complete wardrobe and has a wonderful Spencer pattern with options for two different collars, a peplum, and oversleeves.  The pattern is Regency Wardrobe by La Mode Bagatelle.

 

 

Being short on time and long on a stash fabric of embroidered linen that I purchased from the same costumer who sold me the white linen for the gown, I go immediately into a final sewing.

 

All pieces and lining cut and ready.

Lining for front.  Notice the 3/4" shortness of the front piece?  That happened with the outer layer as well and I still don't know why, but I simply tapered the lower edge into the side piece and made a note to revise if I make this pattern again.  Note to self - always make a mock-up.

Lining back.

Tabs for sleeves.

 

Pieces ready for assembly onto the main body of the Spencer - lower band, peplum, collar with tassel, lined sleeves with lace and tabs.

Collar ready for assembly to the main bodice.

Collar basted to bodice.

Lining attached.

 



Back with collar.

Front with collar.

 

Lower band is added, peplum attached, and band lining stitched in place.

 

Attach the sleeves, some hand finishing because there wasn't time to be historically accurate and hand sew ALL THE THING, and I have a pretty pink Spencer for my Regency gown.  I really love the color and in different lighting it changes to a beautiful dusty rose color.

 



 

At this point it's the holidays, work assignments, cold weather, and a determination on my part to have some wonderful photos of this ensemble being worn.  When I wore the gown I was nervous as it was completely 'out of my comfort zone' as the named Challenge.  Although many people saw it at Costume College I didn't receive one comment about the gown.  When I finally posted it in the Challenge album there wasn't a single comment and only 9 'likes'.  While still hesitating to wear, photo, and post my final Challenge for 2015 I create a two-tone feather inspired by this portrait.

 

I clipped the feathers off each side of two different color feathers and then ladder stitched them together.  It worked well and I see other multi-colored feathers in my future!

 

My husband has graciously agreed to be a photographer for a day and I ready everything.  Then it rains.  While combing the stash for a fabric for my next project I spy this lonely little remnant and decide it is the perfect color for a reticule for my ensemble and the La Mode Bagatelle pattern already contains a wonderful design.  So as to not lose my nerve about the photo shoot, I make up this pretty reticule.

 

The exterior and the lining and my go-to tool for sewing points - a wooden chopstick.

Thread the ribbon completely around from one side...

Thread a second ribbon completely around from the other side and knot the ends.

Pull the ribbons and you have a pretty reticule to carry your cell phone.



It is now March 21st, the second day of spring and the weeping willow tree in our front yard is in full bloom.  It is clear and sunny but very windy and my husband and I enjoy a spring day with me in a very spring-like Regency gown and accessories.  Thank you, hubby!!

Historical Sew Fortnightly

What It Is:  Regency Spencer and Accessories
The Challenge:  2015 #12 - Re-Do
Fabric:  Linen and cotton lining
Pattern:  La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year:  1812
Notions:  Thread, tassel, frog closures, lace
How historically accurate is it?  Primarily machine stitched with hand finishing.
Hours to complete?  8 hours
First Worn:  Today for photos.
Total Cost:  $18

Love always,

Jeanette

Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #7 - Accessorize



July – Accessorize: The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

 

The Dreamstress

Historical Sew Monthly

 

If you have read my post for the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #6 you already know that I'm going to share with you two items I made to accessorize my Regency costume.

 

The first was a beautiful piece of dove gray chiffon that was the perfect size to accessorize my riding hat.  This was time for me to learn how to sew a rolled hem as I had perhaps 60 miles of hem to sew.  Yes, that's slightly exaggerated, but that is certainly how it looked to me!  Several videos and some online tutorials helped me learn a nice technique that I will share with you here.

 

1.  Begin by folding a narrow hem.  I used approximately 1/4".  Take a long stitch into and then out of the fold.  This stitch is approximately 3/8".  Finish the stitch and the thread will be hidden in the fold.

 

 

2.  Move the point of the needle down directly from where it came out of the upper stitch and take a very tiny stitch just below the fabric that you folded over.  This stitch will show when you create your rolled hem so make it very small.  Look closely at these photos and you will see the thread coming down from the top stitch to the bottom stitch.

3.  Continue by taking the needle straight back up to the top of the fold and make another long stitch inside the fold.  Then come back down and take a tiny stitch into the fabric just beneath the folded fabric.  Do this for 8 stitches.  It will look like this:

4.  After you have created the pattern 8 times pull your thread and stroke the fabric to make a smooth rolled hem.  The stitches going from top to bottom will pull nicely and roll the fold down to the lower stitching.  It's really a beautiful finished hem!

 

This was a nice project to take with me during work assignments and here is my finished scarf on the Regency riding hat.  I love the look of the rolled hem!

Now that I have a new skill I can use it to make another accessory - a Regency chemisette.  Since I didn't have time to hand sew my Regency bodiced petticoat and gown, I can be more historically accurate with my chemisette since it is a much smaller project.

The pattern is included in the La Mode Bagatelle Regency wardrobe pattern collection.  I sew the French seams entirely by hand, and use my newly learned rolled hem technique to finish the sides of the chemisette.  Some lace, a few buttons, some grosgrain ribbon to secure the chemisette when worn, and now I can add some modesty to my daytime Regency gown.

The accessories are finished for my first Regency costume.

Historical Sew Fortnightly

What It Is:  Scarf and Chemisette
The Challenge:  Accessorize
Fabric:  Chiffon and muslin
Pattern:  La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year:  1810s
Notions:  Thread, buttons, lace, grosgrain ribbon
How historically accurate is it?  Completely hand sewn.
Hours to complete?  Scarf - 8 hours    Chemisette - 2 hours
First Worn:  Costume College 2015
Total Cost:  All items were scrap from other projects.

Love,

Jeanette