Saturday, May 11, 2024

Sewing a Vogue Vintage Hat #1930swardrobe #voguepattern7464

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Hats!  Hats!  Hats!  Don't you love them?!  Looking at Everyday Fashions of the Thirties As Pictured in Sears Catalogs Edited by Stella Blum and we can see that hats were as necessary as shoes during this fashion period.







Even Shirley Temple, Hollywood's number-one box-office draw child actress from 1934 to 1938, has her own page in a 1935 Sears Catalog with her own wardrobe and signature hats.



The separate crown and upturned brim of this 1939 offering with the draped bow is an inspiration to me for my 1930s wardrobe.  I need a hat that will pack and travel well and coordinate with a number of outfits.

Vogue Pattern Service, a Division of Butterick Company Inc., released an accessories pattern 7464 in 2001 entitled Vintage Hats.  "Package includes patterns and instructions for five hats based on styles from the 1930's and 1940's."

View C looks like the stylish but compact hat that will suit my wardrobe plan.  It appears to have a nice sized brim with a small conical crown.  There is no back view included on the envelope but there appears to be a back bow for interest.  What very much interests me, however, is the design created with layers of bias-cut fabric swirling around the hat.  Very fun!

The illustration included with the pattern instructions does not include a back view either, but upon reading the instructions I discover another interesting design element to this vintage style hat.  But I'll surprise you with that later!

One of my favorite places to search for unique designs with a selection of fabrics is Spoonflower, a print on demand company with designs from independent artists worldwide, including yourself.  Spoonflower started in 2008 in a small sock factory in my state of North Carolina and now produces textiles and wallpapers with a low-waste digital print process and other eco-friendly efforts.  I've designed my own patterns in the past using their software but didn't need to look far to find the perfect design for my Vogue Vintage Hat.  The pattern is Red and Gray Stripes on Black Small Fabric designed by gingezel.  There are several designs which coordinate with my choice for future projects.  I had a yard printed on Petal Signature Cotton.  Perfect colors for the black and white wardrobe with red accents.

Pattern piece #11, crown, is cut from buckram.

#8, brim, will have two pieces cut from buckram.  #13, the stay, is also cut from buckram.

Pieces #9, #10, #11 and #12 will all be cut from fabric on the bias.

#14, the ties, will be cut from fabric on the bias.

The correct pieces are cut from a single-ply buckram.

All markings are transferred from the brim pattern to both buckram pieces.

The fabric is cut for all pieces and the bias will create that beautiful swirl I love on the envelope illustration.

The centers are cut from both buckram brim pieces, the pieces stacked with even edges, and both the inner and outer edges are basted.

The instructions and illustrations show the brim outer edge being turned in, sewn, and millinery wire threaded through the casing created with the sewing.  Instead I laid the millinery wire on the buckram, turned the outer edge over to encase the wire, and whipstitched along the outer edge. 

#9 is sewn at the seam to create a full circle.

Two rows of gathering stitches are sewn at each edge of this piece.

Using pins to mark each 1/4 section on both edges, the stitches are pulled to gather the fabric to fit the inner edge of the brim.  Clips hold the gathered fabric to the buckram and the fabric is basted to the brim.

With the under brim in place, the brim is turned over, the fabric evenly gathered with the edge at the Placement Line (P. L.) marked on the brim, and basted in place.  For this basting I used a long stitch on top which will be covered, and a small stitch on the bottom which may be visible later.

Sigh, finished photos of this step missing.  So sorry!

Moving forward, bias piece #10 will now be used to cover the portion of the upper brim left open in the previous step.  The piece is folded wrong sides together, pressed, the ends basted, and two rows of gathering stitches sewn at the raw edge.

The strip is gathered to fit the inner edge of the upper brim, gathers adjusted, and the fabric clipped to the brim.

The gathered strip is basted at the inner edge with one end folded under overlapping the other end for a finished look.

The gathered strip is then machine sewn 1/4" from the pressed edge and then again 1/4" from the previous stitching all the way to the basted edge.

The outermost edge of the gathered strip is lightly pressed inward.  This creates a beautiful texture along with the swirl of the stripes.  Taking inspiration from the pattern envelope, I did take care to adjust the print to continue the stripes through the different pieces.  

The brim is now ready for the crown, #11.  The buckram and fabric are basted together at the outer edge.

The crown is folded at the roll line, pressed, and basted together close to the outer edge.

The crown is tacked together at the markings.

The crown is pinned to the brim along the seamlines matching symbols and clipping as necessary.

The crown is handstitched to the brim at the lower edge of the crown.  For me this is the difficult part of millinery.  For each stitch there will be 2 layers of fabric and 2 layers of buckram on the crown.  There will be 2 layers of gathered fabric and 2 layers of buckram on the brim.  A total of 4 layers of fabric and 4 layers of buckram can be difficult to penetrate and, at times, I will use covered pliers to give my needle the push that my fingers alone can't give.

#12 bias strip is not only a design feature but will cover where the crown and brim join.  3/8" is pressed inward on both long edges and then the strip folded along the roll line and pressed.

The pressed edge of this band is positioned 1/8" lower than the edge of the crown, pinned and stretched to shape.  The strip is cut with an overlap at the center back and the remainder of this strip will be used later.  The pressed edge is stitched to the brim and, for me, a curved needle is a big help.

The next step will be to add ribbon with elastic.  The instructions call for 2" wide ribbon, but 1-1/2" wide ribbon is only available to me.  I cut the ribbon to the recommended 13-1/2" length.

The ribbon is folded in 4" at one end and a 1/4" casing sewn at the fold.  The end is cut in a V.

The other end is pleated and basted.

The pleated ends are laid 1/2" over the inner edge of the under brim at opposite sides and basted in place.

I placed my ribbons so that they would meet behind the head with the casings facing each other (this is where the elastic will be inserted later) and the trimmed end facing out like a bow.

View C Notions specified a 6" Styrofoam Ball.  I found a half sphere in a close size.

The styrofoam shape will be used to create a stay from the buckram cut with #13.

I placed plastic wrap over the styrofoam, a damp wash cloth, and smoothed the stay over the curve shaping the sides.  This was then allowed to dry overnight.

The shaped and dry stay is placed inside the crown center and the edges of the stay and brim are sewn together.

Again, a curved needle worked nicely for me.

The leftover bias band is now used to cover the seam overlapping the ends for a smooth finish.

The instructions recommended craft glue to secure the inner edge of the band to the buckram but I used my curved needle and sewed that edge to the buckram.

The elastic cord is cut to 3", threaded through the ribbon casings, and tied.

Now #14 ties can be sewn to create the bow.  A narrow hem is sewn on the upper and lower edges.  Gathering stitches are sewn at the raw ends and as marked on the pattern piece.

The gathering stitches at the raw ends are pulled tightly and secured.

The gathered ends are overlapped and tacked 2" from the outer edge of the brim at the center back.

And then the biggest surprise for this hat was the step where the back brim is turned up and tacked to the upper front edge of the crown.  A stylish technique that wasn't apparent on the pattern envelope or illustration.  A very fun technique!

I tacked the edge of the brim to the upper edge of the crown 3" to keep the crown smooth.  Fewer tacks left the crown buckling inward.

The second row of gathers is tightened on each tie and secured.

I tried several locations for tacking the ties to the upturned brim.  I also pulled out my button bin and tried several styles of buttons for a finishing touch over the gathers.  A lone red satin button was repurposed and a nice touch, I think.

A Finished Vogue Vintage Hat for A 1930s Wardrobe

Project Finish Reward

Time for a treat!  An IBC Root Beer float!  IBC Root Beer was founded in 1919 by Independent Breweries Company in St. Louis, Missouri.  Root beer was a popular and legal beverage during Prohibition.  The formula is made with cane sugar and with a smooth vanilla ice cream it is a favorite of mine in any weather.  Cheers!