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Companion YouTube Video: https://youtu.be/H_MzkBplEJI
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While Leimomi now focuses on her teaching and her business partnership in Scroop Patterns, a group of volunteers has kept the Historical Sew Monthly moving forward with new monthly challenges and helpful discussion. I adore this group! They provide inspiration in all historical and vintage fashion up to 1938. The members' contributions and knowledge are incredible.
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Since the twelve monthly Challenges may be completed and submitted at any time throughout the year and in any order, it also works well for me to fit my projects for any events into the Challenges. A summary of the 2023 Challenges and the detail required for submission into the monthly Challenge albums is here for you.
The Historical Sew Monthly 2023 Challenges
January - Back to the Beginning
The Challenge: Re-make one of your very first projects. Or make something that is the beginning of an entirely new outfit.
What the item is: False Rump
How it fits the Challenge: This false rump will create the full-bottomed and round-hipped shape for the beginning of a new outfit.
Material: Linen, cotton
Pattern: Free Frances Rump pattern by Scroop Patterns
Year: 1775-1795, this view being correct for 1775-1787
Notions: Waterfowl feathers and down, twill tape, thread
How historically accurate is it? The pattern and silhouette are very accurate, the fabrics and notions are accurate, but the false rump is primarily machine sewn.
Hours to complete: 4 hours
First worn: Halloween 2023
Total cost: Fabric $8, twill tape $4, feathers recycled from a pillow
February - Reality Is Unrealistic
Challenge: Our modern, media-influenced perceptions of the past are often quite limited or inaccurate in comparison to the full picture that research reveals. Colourful peasant clothing? The prevalence of day caps? Bra-like garments in the Middle Ages? Make an accurate historical garment that defies our modern expectations of what was possible or commonly done!
What the item is: Fringe Dress
How it fits the Challenge: The Jazz Age is 100 years past but our modern perception of the clothing is heavily influenced by movies and the stereotype of the flapper in the heavily fringed dress. While fringe was certainly used, it was also used in styles other than flapper for both day and evening wear.
Material: Satin
Pattern: Decades of Style Pattern Company 1925 Fringe Front Dress
Year: 1925
Notions: 12" Fringe, sequin rope trim, thread
How historically accurate is it? Uses an accurate pattern with the luscious fabrics and trims of the era.
Hours to complete: 8 hours
First worn: For a Gatsby Fundraiser.
Total cost: $37
March - Focus on the Fabric
The Challenge: Make something in which the fabric colour/ texture/print/material etc. is the central feature of the design.
What the item is: 1920s Poiret Style Cocoon Coat
How it fits the Challenge: While the design of this coat has survived these past 100 years, the fabric of this particular coat was not only important for the impression I was recreating, but is the absolute star of this garment.
Material: Satin, velvet-flocked net overlay
Pattern: Folkwear 503 Poiret Cocoon Coat
Year: 1920s
Notions: Faux fur trim, thread
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is very accurate, the materials were only to give the impression for the recreation.
Hours to complete: 14 hours
First worn: Voyage on the Queen Mary 2 (A once-in-a-lifetime trip and dream come true!)
Total cost: $70
April - Opposites Attract
The Challenge: Challenge yourself to make something that uses two or more colours which you would not normally use together, or colours which "clash" to the modern eye.
What the item is: Early 1930s Combinations
How it fits the Challenge: Using remaining fabric pieces from previous sewing projects, the colours are a warm and cool and directly opposite each other on the color wheel. But only I will see them along with my very close friends and now all of you reading this. ;)
Material: China silk and silk crepe de chine.
Pattern: Wearing History Early 1930s Combination Underwear
Year: Early 1930s
Notions: Snaps, thread, bias tape
How historically accurate is it? Pattern is very accurate and use of bits of available materials and notions is also very accurate.
Hours to complete: 6 hours - only because I'm dreadfully slow at sewing snaps.
First worn: Ready for the next 1930s/1940s event.
Total cost: Fabric was bits from previous projects as was the bias tape. $2.50 for snaps.
May - Hair Apparel
The Challenge: Make something worn in the hair or on the head.
What the item is: Regency Era Turban
How it fits the Challenge: Worn on the head.
Materials: Satin, metallic embroidered organza, silk for lining, woven ribbon.
Pattern: Wingeo WN714 - 1795 - 1825 Regency Era Turban
Year: Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries
Notions: Button blank, vintage feather, thread, buckram
How historically accurate is it? Unsure of the accuracy of the pattern or method of construction, but it did produce a very comfortable turban that was wearable for the entire evening and stayed in place without any pins. I wanted to recreate the brow band in the inspiration illustration and this pattern made that possible.
Hours to complete: 10 hours
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $50.
How it fits the Challenge: Worn on the head.
Materials: Satin, metallic embroidered organza, silk for lining, woven ribbon.
Pattern: Wingeo WN714 - 1795 - 1825 Regency Era Turban
Year: Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries
Notions: Button blank, vintage feather, thread, buckram
How historically accurate is it? Unsure of the accuracy of the pattern or method of construction, but it did produce a very comfortable turban that was wearable for the entire evening and stayed in place without any pins. I wanted to recreate the brow band in the inspiration illustration and this pattern made that possible.
Hours to complete: 10 hours
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $50.
June - Jack of All Trades
The Challenge: Make something that uses two or more different production techniques (sewing, knitting, embroidery, quilting, tatting etc.)
What the item is: Escoffion
How it fits the Challenge: This headpiece used sewing, ribbon weaving, and beading techniques.
Material: Metallic ribbon.
Pattern: Elizabethan Escoffion - Cloth of Gold - Lynn McMasters - Out of a Portrait
Year: 16th Century
Notions: Several sizes of pearls, black seed beads, trim for the edge, satin ribbon for the back ties, thread.
How historically accurate is it? As this was a learning piece I followed the instructions but not the suggested ribbon.
Hours to complete: 12 hours
First worn: For a 1930s Black and White evening.
Total cost: $25
How it fits the Challenge: This headpiece used sewing, ribbon weaving, and beading techniques.
Material: Metallic ribbon.
Pattern: Elizabethan Escoffion - Cloth of Gold - Lynn McMasters - Out of a Portrait
Year: 16th Century
Notions: Several sizes of pearls, black seed beads, trim for the edge, satin ribbon for the back ties, thread.
How historically accurate is it? As this was a learning piece I followed the instructions but not the suggested ribbon.
Hours to complete: 12 hours
First worn: For a 1930s Black and White evening.
Total cost: $25
July - Once Upon A Time
The Challenge: Make something inspired by a fairy tale or folk tale.
What the item is: Regency Gown
How it fits the Challenge: This is the story of two present-day Cinderellas. The first is me. I had attended my last costumed event in October 2019. In September 2023 an event was scheduled just 3 hours from my home which is an extraordinary occurrence and it would be the first costumed event I would travel to in almost four years. The event was The Lafayette Birthday Ball hosted by Beespoke Vintage. With 2024 and 2025 being the bicentennial of the Marquis de Lafayette's return visit to the United States, and events also being held near me, this was the perfect time for me to learn this beautiful and not often recreated era of mid-1820s fashion. One day I happened upon a January 1825 Ackermann's Repository illustration. I fell in love! I had been gifted a satin in the perfect color. I recreated the gown and attended the Ball in true Cinderella style. Having been gifted this fabric and saving funds, I decided to sponsor another Cinderella to attend the Ball. She has since published on social media sharing her and my name. So I became a Fairy Godmother as well!
Material: Satin, embroidered organza, cotton
Pattern: Laughing Moon 138 Regency Gown and Hamilton Spencer for sleeve detail
Year: 1825
Notions: Woven buttons, woven ribbon, velvet ribbon and seed beads for hem embellishment, costume pin for belt, cotton lace for sleeve details
How historically accurate is it? A very detailed pattern and closely following the 1825 illustration made this as accurate as I could for impression. Machine sewn where possible.
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $140
How it fits the Challenge: This is the story of two present-day Cinderellas. The first is me. I had attended my last costumed event in October 2019. In September 2023 an event was scheduled just 3 hours from my home which is an extraordinary occurrence and it would be the first costumed event I would travel to in almost four years. The event was The Lafayette Birthday Ball hosted by Beespoke Vintage. With 2024 and 2025 being the bicentennial of the Marquis de Lafayette's return visit to the United States, and events also being held near me, this was the perfect time for me to learn this beautiful and not often recreated era of mid-1820s fashion. One day I happened upon a January 1825 Ackermann's Repository illustration. I fell in love! I had been gifted a satin in the perfect color. I recreated the gown and attended the Ball in true Cinderella style. Having been gifted this fabric and saving funds, I decided to sponsor another Cinderella to attend the Ball. She has since published on social media sharing her and my name. So I became a Fairy Godmother as well!
Material: Satin, embroidered organza, cotton
Pattern: Laughing Moon 138 Regency Gown and Hamilton Spencer for sleeve detail
Year: 1825
Notions: Woven buttons, woven ribbon, velvet ribbon and seed beads for hem embellishment, costume pin for belt, cotton lace for sleeve details
How historically accurate is it? A very detailed pattern and closely following the 1825 illustration made this as accurate as I could for impression. Machine sewn where possible.
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $140
August - All Tied Up
The Challenge: Make something that closes with ties, or something that uses knots/bows as a decorative feature.
What the item is: Evening Wrap
How it fits the Challenge: The collar of this wrap extends to ties that, when knotted, hold the wrap closed.Material: Velvet and faux satin.
Pattern: Depew Patterns 1931 5 Evening Wraps
Year: 1931
Notions: Thread
How historically accurate is it? Sewn using a vintage page with only measurements for cutting the fabric and slight instructions.
Hours to complete: 2 hours
First worn: Enjoying the Casino on the Queen Mary 2 during the Red and Gold Gala Evening.
Total cost: The wrap is slightly shorter than the instructions called for as I used a velvet piece purchased in a costumers destash group for $5. The gold faux satin lining was $4
September - The State of Fashion
The Challenge: Make something for which the fashion was influenced by political situations happening at that time in history (ex. sumptuary laws, imports and tariffs, protests, conflicts or social movements.)
What the item is: 18th Century Gown
How it fits the Challenge: Britain had its silk industry located in Spitalfields, London. Beautiful fabrics brocaded in silver and gold were produced. To protect the local industry the British government established high taxes on imported textiles. Between 1765 and 1768 riots occurred during a downturn in the silk weaving industry. The Spitalfields weavers organized to attempt to ensure that the rates of pay for their piece work was not cut beneath the level at which they could feed themselves and their families. Destruction, violence, and a hanging were all attributed to the Spitalfields riots.
I've chosen a pattern close to that period (1775-1790) which has detailed and historically accurate sewing instructions greatly helping me learn period construction. I'll be making a mock-up from a non-silk fabric for a fun costume allowing for mistakes and learning, but will create the final gown for a future event in a beautiful silk.
Materials: Faux silk taffeta, cotton
Pattern: Angelica Gown by Scroop Patterns
Year: 1775 - 1790
Notions: Metal eyelets, yarn, lace, and the fun appliques.
How historically accurate is it? I learned a lot of historical techniques from this pattern. I did machine sew where possible and, of course, the complete impression is non-historical. But it was fun and completely stress-free! So 10% - maybe. :)
Hours to complete: With the appliques this took almost 40 hours.
First worn: Halloween 2023
Total cost: $35
October - HSM Lookbook
The Challenge: We have so many talented costumers in the HSM community! Make something inspired by someone else's HSM project from an earlier month/year.
What the item is: Regency Reticule
How it fits the Challenge: I've always loved the tasseled reticules such as Leimomi Oakes and Alyssa Nunley created for the November 2018 Challenge. This reticule was perfect to follow their inspiration.Material: Satin, silk lining, metallic embroidered net
Pattern: La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year: Regency Era
Notions: Silk tassels, thread, satin ribbon
How historically accurate is it? As depicted in many Regency illustrations but machine sewn.
Hours to complete: 1 hour
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted, but if I had to purchase all items I would estimate $10
November - Style Starts at Home
The Challenge: Make something which would generally be seen only within the household (ex. informal at-home wear, nightwear, undergarments).
What the item is: Corset Garter Belt
How it fits the Challenge: An undergarment to create the period silhouette and hold stockings.
Material: Coutil
Pattern: Mrs Depew 1930s Corset Garter Belt
Year: 1930s
Notions: Busk, spiral metal boning, elastic, twill tape, garters, embroidery floss
How historically accurate is it? Pattern, materials, and techniques all accurate.
Hours to complete: 8 hours
First worn: 1930s evening on the Queen Mary 2
Total cost: $55
December - Paired to Perfection
The Challenge: Make something that comes in a pair (mittens, stockings, garters, braces etc.) Or make something in which the trim or construction prominently features sets of two.
What the item is: Bra and garter belt
How it fits the Challenge: Designed for both upper and lower body parts that appear in sets of two.
Material: Satin, embroidered net
Pattern: The Underpinnings Museum 1930s Kestos Style Bra and 1930s Kestos 'Zoma' Suspender Belt
Year: 1930s
Notions: Elastic, satin ribbon, garters, hooks and eyes, buttons, thread
How historically accurate is it? Patterns developed from a museum collection and materials accurate.
Hours to complete: 15 hours
First worn: Casual wear 1930s day on the Queen Mary 2
Total cost: $20
Completing these 12 projects earned me a Certificate of Awesomeness! from The Historical Sew Monthly community. 126 projects were completed by 33 participants in the group. I'm very thankful to be part of that welcoming and inclusive community!
2023 Costume Events and Projects - Planned
It was wonderful to find that Beespoke Vintage, headquartered just 3 hours from me in Fayetteville, North Carolina, was organizing costume-related events prior to The National Celebration of the Bicentennial of Lafayette's Farewell Tour in 2024 and 2025. Rebecca planned a series of lectures and workshops beginning June for foundations, day dress, and evening dress, leading up to The Lafayette Grand Birthday Ball & Soiree in September.
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Corsets & Cravats 2023 was to be held in Raleigh, North Carolina in August. I submitted a teaching proposal for the event. I then learned that the event was focused on a specific historical period 1830 to 1880. My class proposal for ribbon flowers was considered out of that period and rejected. I've created costumes in the 1870s period, but those costumes and underthings have been sold and I didn't have any resources available to create more. In the end I decided to revisit that event another year.
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I had purchased a ticket for the 18th century ball that was to be held in St. Louis in October, but family commitments meant making the difficult choice to forego that event as well. Again, the gown made for Versailles in 2020 remains unworn. Some day, I hope!!
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2023 Costume Events - Attended
But a change of plans did not mean staying home.
June 2023 - Preparing for Lafayette
I attended the first Beespoke Vintage Foundations Lecture and Workshop in Fayetteville. There I received from Rebecca a Swag Bag full of information from The American Friends of Lafayette and The Lafayette Society regarding the upcoming Bicentennial Farewell Tour. The class was so informative for me for an era I'm very unfamiliar with and the town of Fayetteville is an historic treasure.
August 2023 - The Taste of Prohibition
Harper House in Hickory, North Carolina was hosting a Gatsby-themed fundraiser and a perfectly jazzy evening was had by all!
September 2023 - Lafayette's Grand Birthday Ball & Soiree
The event was a weekend full of costuming fun! Rebecca was the perfect organizer and host and every detail was exact and beautiful! You can be sure I will attend future events!
November/December 2023 - Queen Mary 2 Voyage
The original Queen Mary 2 voyage was scheduled for May 2020 and cancelled during the world lockdown. I had made several attempts to reschedule that voyage but, magically, this was to be the year! The 1930s wardrobe I had been creating could finally be worn over a 12-night Eastern Caribbean holiday.
An incredible dream come true! And a costumer's dream as well!
2024 Plans
One of the first things I would like to do in 2024 is get caught up on the diaries of the makes for the 1930s wardrobe, the 1825 gown, turban, and reticule for the Lafayette Grand Birthday Ball and the memories of those events as well. There are also a few other makes awaiting diaries like the Bridgerton Ball Gown and, of course, there are 12 new Challenges for The Historical Sew Monthly 2024.
The Ojibwe beadwork for my 1862 Coat is still in progress. I'm learning some beautiful techniques but the learning has taken quite a while, and the coat will take probably several more years. My Native American ancestors would be smiling on me, I'm sure.
Once in a while in my blog posts and videos I will share some behind the scenes info and photos about myself, my past, my sewing process and thoughts. I will share photos of my very tiny sewing cubbyhole and the desk where my sewing machine or hand stitching happens near the window. You've seen the bedroom where I have to set up my dressform and ironing board. You've seen the living room or kitchen spaces where I have to cut fabric.
And then the final reveal photos in my yard or a temporary photo backdrop in the same living room space were I've cut fabric. What I would like to do in 2024 is share a more personal side of me so that you know the what, where, and why of my costuming passion. That means talking to the camera. Yikes!! Give me a boardroom and a multi-million dollar engineering proposal and I'm fine. But talk to the camera? *faint*
2024 Costume Events
In December 2022 I created an online group of costumers who had attended previous events I've organized and hosted, costumers whose events I've travelled to attend, and a few others whom I only knew online. During the next 6 months I shared my dream of Almost Heaven - A Costumer's Retreat at The Greenbrier in West Sulphur Springs, West Virginia.
The history of The Greenbrier is documented to 1778 and the range of our four-day retreat was a time-traveler's dream. Early arrival day was Draper Day, 1940s and 1950s, in honor of Dorothy Draper, grandmother of Reese Witherspoon, and decorator of immense properties worldwide. The Greenbrier is colorful and a breath of fresh, peaceful air, thanks to Dorothy Draper.
A 1920s and 1930s day was planned with our luncheon in the original Spring Room, a tour of The Bunker which had been a nuclear fallout shelter for portions of the United States government, and an evening in the Casino celebrating the end of Prohibition.
The next day. themed 1910s and 1900s, included a trip to the Cass Scenic Railroad where we would be taken from Cass to Durbin by a Shay steam locomotive riding in a plush original 1917 Pullman Car.
The last day was Costumer's Choice with activities voted on by the group including croquet on the lawn reserved specifically for that activity, carriage rides, falconry, and mountaineering which included archery. And a very necessary grand photo-taking tour throughout The Greenbrier!
A site visit to The Greenbrier and Cass Scenic Railroad in June solidified all details including meals, photographer, activities, and negotiation for a block room rate. I took the info back to the group and a deposit of one night's room would have to be made to secure our negotiated rate.
Through the previous months some group members had left the group knowing they could not attend the event and, sadly, as the deposit was now due, enough other members left the group resulting is us losing our negotiated room rate. I'm honest when I tell you I was heartbroken for the dream and the work I had done and lost. The only other option was for me to pay the room deposits out of personal funds and hope to fill them later. I decided not to do that and let the Almost Heaven event dream fade.
I still don't have the heart to try to plan another event, but as there were still some group members who wanted to spend time together we are discussing some options. A plan is in the works, part of it confirmed, and reservations made. It will be on the west coast where my teaching proposal has been accepted. Yay!! But that's all I'm saying for now. Wish me luck with this one!
In October 2023 I became aware of the Mt. Dora Jane Austen Fest in Florida scheduled for February 2024. The event is located within driving distance of family and friends and I jumped on the chance to combine visits and learning more about the Regency era. As of this writing I have already attended and I can recommend the Fest in this wonderful historic community. The Fest was sponsored by Hallmark for their Loveuary Austen Series and the swag bag was wonderful. The dates have already been announced for 2025 and it is already my hope to attend again.
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In June 2024 Beespoke Vintage will host another event in Fayetteville, North Carolina. Since Rebecca did such an amazing event with the Lafayette Grand Birthday Ball & Soiree in September 2023, I think this worth putting on the 2024 Planned Events calendar. 1940s sewing in planning!
Withing you a 2024 filled with good sewing, good crafting, and good friends! Thank you for sharing the journey with me!
Hugs,
Jeanette
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