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Historical Sew Monthly 2019 - September
Everyday: It's not all special occasion frocks.
Make something that would have been worn or used every day.
The Dreamstress
As I continue my journey of 18th century dressmaking, I realize how much I need to practice the simple hand sewing of the era. It takes time! I'm sure with practice it will take less time, but now it is painstakingly s.l.o.w. So practice I must!
I've made an 18th century pocket and have linen left from that project and I decide to make a simple kerchief out of a scrap. Good practice and very simple, right? Oh yes, but the research rabbit hole I fell into was anything but! So first just a few historical insights.
The kerchief, handkerchief, handkercher, or hankie, has evolved over hundreds of years for personal hygiene, as garment decoration, and even as an accessory in folkdances. There are collectors, books, and handkerchiefs printed with everything from cocktail recipes to dance steps. Amazing!
The poet Catullus mentions cloths used for utilitarian purposes such as wiping one's brow or general purpose cleaning as early as the 1st century B.C.
King Richard II of England, who reigned from 1377 to 1399, is widely believed to have invented the cloth handkerchief, as surviving documents written by his courtiers describe his use of square pieces of cloth to wipe his nose.
My grandmother was born in 1897 and I remember her being very particular about her handkerchiefs and storing them in a wooden box on her dresser. She always had one with her, tucked into her dress belt or in case she wasn't wearing a belt, into her bra strap at her shoulder and just peeking over her collar. I was made to carry one in my pocket as a child. Although I don't know when I stopped using cloth, I am always sure to still carry a packet of Kleenex with me.
At the end of this post I will share two wonderful resources I found with details and reference about this incredible piece of cloth and its uses over the years.
My research tells me that linen was a preferred use for the handkerchief in Rome and used to wipe sweat from the faces of the wealthy. My linen scrap is perfect.
The first thing I do is square up the weave by removing one thread from the cloth which shows me the perfect cutting line.
The edges are turned up 1/4" and basted.
Then the edges are turned up again to a 1/8" hem and hemmed with a whip stitch. At this point in my learning I can only get 12 stitches to an inch and I'm told 16 is better. So tiny!
And I can only do that with some help - my trusty magnifying glass. So very very tiny!
It's finished! Front and back photos of my finished project. Not much to look at now but I'm taking an online embroidery class and will add something special later. For now, I'm thrilled and I show my husband. He can see I'm happy and promises to organize a parade for me. :)
These are the two links to resources that have interesting background on the lowly little handkerchief:
Achoo! Bless you! Need a handkerchief?
Historical Sew Monthly
What the item is: Handkerchief
How it fits the challenge: An item used everyday.
Material: Linen
Pattern: None
Year: Many eras
Notions: Thread
How historically accurate is it? Accurate material and technique.
Hours to complete: 6
First worn: 18th century event in 2020
Total cost: Made with a scrap from another project
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