Happy 2024!
2024 was the 12th year of the Historical Sew Monthly! I started my journey with that creative group in 2014 and while I couldn't participate fully in the years I traveled extensively for work, I did participate in 2024 completing all 12 of the Challenges.
Sharing the HSM Challenges with you is a great summary of my costuming creations for 2024.
Historical Sew Monthly 2024
January: Just Peachy: "Peach Fuzz" is the Pantone colour for 2024! Make something in peach - or in the related colours of pink or orange.
What the item is: Casual Topper
How it fits the Challenge: The topper was sewn to complement a casual pajamas with jacket. The color is a bright - very bright! - orange.
Material: Faux taffeta
Pattern: Wearing History E-3012 Sporty Toppers - 1930s Hats
Year: 1930s
Notions: Thread and button blanks
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is from the Resto-Vival line of vintage pattern recreations.
First worn: Quiet evening at a 1930s retreat.
Total cost: Scraps from the pajamas project and 37 cents for the button blanks.
February: Seasons of Fashion: Make something designed for a specific season, whether that be a meteorological season (ex: winter of summer, or the dry/rainy season) or a cultural season (ex: Carnival, the London social 'Season').
What the item is: Holiday Jacket and Skirt
How it fits the Challenge: The 2024 Holiday Season is the fifth year I will have created a vintage or historical wearable-sized garment inspired by a Hallmark Special Edition Barbie doll. This is my interpretation of Yuletide Romance Barbie.
Material: Moire damask, silk velvet, cotton
Pattern: Butterick Making History B4954
Year: 1890s
Notions: Soutache, interfacing, thread, button blanks
How historically accurate is it? Appropriate fabrics and design. The pattern reflects the silhouette of the period.
First worn: For a Holiday day event.
Total cost: Difficult to determine as the moire damask and silk velvet were a gift. Without this wonderful gift this project would not have happened.
March: Made to Move: Make something designed for movement, such as physical work, sport, or dance.
What the item is: Dress with tunic
How it fits the Challenge: The tiers of the dress are separate, layered, free at their lower edge, and end with loose ties, and are perfect for interest and movement when dancing.
Material: Andover Downton Abbey licensed cotton fabrics.
Pattern: Decades of Style #2044 1920s Tier-riffic Ensemble
Year: 1920s
Notions: Satin bias binding and thread.
How historically accurate is it? Sewn from an historically accurate pattern.
First worn: July 2024 teaching a class at Costume College.
Total cost: $48
April: Colours of Nature: Make something using undyed material, or material coloured with natural dyes.
What the item is: Hip Pad and Bustle
How it fits the Challenge: The fabric is a natural and unbleached muslin.
Material: Muslin
Pattern: Virgil's Fine Goods Scotty Ventilated Hip Pad and Bustle
Year: 1900-1905
Notions: Thread, grommets, embroidery thread, twill tape, Poly-fil.
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is an Historical Replica of an extant garment. The fabric and construction are accurate. The Poly-fil is modern and probably would have been wool in the era.
First worn: Made for an Edwardian garment scheduled for 2025.
Total cost: $11 including the pdf pattern.
May: New Clothes from Old: Make something new out of a worn-out garment or accessory. Or make something using recycled materials.
What the item is: Lace Vest
How it fits the Challenge: The vest uses offcuts of fabric and trims unused in previous projects.
Material: Cotton and beaded/embroidered net.
Pattern: Wearing History AC117 1908 Lace Vest
Year: 1908 but worn as an earlier Victorian impression
Notions: Thread, buttons, snaps
How historically accurate is it? The pattern is remastered from an original in La Mode Illustree. The closure is used for convenience and not accurate.
First worn: Trip to Tombstone, Arizona
Total cost: All fabric and trim used are left over from previous projects. $5 for the pattern.
June: Up Your Sleeve: Level up your sleeve game by making a garment where the focus is on the sleeves.
What the item is: Pajamas With Jacket
How it fits the Challenge: The pattern illustration for this garment was so colorful and I wanted to create it with exactly each color. The bolero bell sleeve has an upper and lower in separate colors which is such a great design detail.
Material: Cotton, faux taffeta, lining
Pattern: Revival Designed #6581 Pajamas With Jacket
Year: 1930
Notions: Button blanks and thread.
How historically accurate is it? A vintage pattern and each of the three pieces fully lined for draping.
First worn: A quiet evening at a 1930s retreat.
Total cost: $87
July: Always in Style: Make a garment or accessory that is appropriate for more than one historical period...or even a historical piece that can be worn with modern clothing! (Note that the piece should still be 'historical', not just 'historically-inspired'.)
What the item is: Cloche Hat
How it fits the Challenge: A fashion icon of the 1920s, the cloche is a hat style from the "heyday" of hat wearing. A 1908 invention by the French milliner Caroline Reboux, cloche is French for bell which defines the close-to-the-head shape. With many options for brim shapes and embellishment, the cloche remained popular through the 1920s and 1930s. It fell out of style in the 1940s and 1950s with a resurgence in the 1960s. Again popular in the 1980s, it has remained a much loved style even showing in the 2008 Dior collection of cloche-inspired hats.
Materials: Andover Downton Abbey licensed cotton fabrics. The main fabric is called Lady Sybil.
Pattern: Vivienne by Elsewhen on Etsy
Year: 1920s
Notions: Interfacing, thread, satin bias binding, cloisonne button.
How historically accurate is it: The brim detail is true to an offering in a 1930 Sears Catalogue.
First worn: July 2024 teaching a class at Costume College.
Total cost: $17
August: Stripes and Dots: Make something using striped or dotted material. The stripes or dots can be printed on the material, knitted/woven in to the material, or created with surface embellishment (ex: embroidery). Textural stripes or dots (i.e. those that are the same colour as the base fabric) are permitted!What the item is: Striped hatHow it fits the challenge: The striped fabric is all cut on the bias for all brim pieces and trims, and the crown to create twists and visual interest.Material: CottonPattern: Vogue Accessories Vintage Hats of the 1930s and 1940sYear: 1930sNotions: Buckram, thread, satin ribbon, elastic, buttonHow historically accurate is it? Historically accurate based on the research shared on my blog post for this make.First worn: WWII Commemorative Event July 2024 where I was very old-fashioned in my 1930s dress and hat.Total cost: $27
September: New Stitch in Town: Make something that uses a new-to-you stitch! It could be pad-stitching a waistcoat, using a mantua-maker's seam on a gown, trying a new knitting/crochet stitch pattern, experimenting with your first embroidery...Challenge yourself and learn something new!
What the item is: Victorian Era Reticule
How it fits the Challenge: Soutache was a popular embellishment in the Victorian period and because of the nap of the velvet, hand stitching was necessary and a technique that I had to teach myself to create this piece.
Material: Silk velvet and brocade.
Pattern: Vintage Pattern Lending Library #14794 Beaded Handbag
Year: 1912 Pattern but appropriate for multiple decades of fashion use.
Notions: Soutache, interfacing, thread, tassels.
How historically accurate is it? The style spans many eras and the embellishment is period appropriate.
First worn: Sewn for a holiday day gown.
Total cost: The fabric was gifted, the soutache a small portion of what was acquired for the coordinating suit, but the tassels and pattern were purchased. If all purchased I would estimate $75.
October: UFO Spotter: We all have an UnFinished Object or two (or ten!) Now's the time to complete one of your unfinished historical costuming projects.
What the item is: Spectator Coat and Turban
How it fits the Challenge: This was a 2023 project made for a winter historic themed train ride. My companion for the event had to cancel and so I cancelled the train ride tickets, the tea, the overnight in an historic hotel, and lost my inspiration to finish the collar and buttons for my coat. It hung on the UFO rack until this Challenge inspired me to finish.
Material: Rayon velvet, cotton
Pattern: Folkwear 262
Year: 1925
Notions: Interfacing, thread, button blanks, vintage feathers
How historically accurate is it? Very accurate from period illustrations I've seen.
First worn: Not yet, but I should find another train ride!
Total cost: $85
November: Worn by All: Make a garment that would be worn as everyday clothing by most social classes during your chosen time period and/or place.
What the Item Is: An apron.
How it fits the Challenge: There were social classes such as people working in service, the trades, shopkeepers, industry, and farm workers, who all wore aprons daily to protect their clothing. This apron is made to protect clothing while serving tea.
Material: Embroidered cotton with lace edging.
Patttern: Butterick Making History B6229
Year: 1890s Victorian Era
Notions: Thread, lightweight interfacing.
How historically accurate is it? A very simple construction of three panels with waistband and tie ends. The woven interfacing may have been another layer of heavier cotton.
First worn: Serving a Victorian tea to family.
Total cost: $27
December: That's a Wrap: Make an accessory or garment that is worn by wrapping it around the body.
What the item is: Regency Spencer
How it fits the Challenge: The Spencer is designed to wrap to close or may be worn open.
Material: Silk and cotton
Pattern: Laughing Moon #129 Ladies' Wrapping Front Spencer
Year: 1798-1809
Notions: Cord for neckline edge, button blanks for embroidered buttons, thread.
How historically accurate is it? The sleeve lining silk and pattern are historically accurate but the red silk for the exterior is a slubbed silk and not accurate.
First worn: February 2024 Jane Austen Festival in Mt. Dora, Florida, USA
Total cost: $32
A small project with a huge transformation to the white gown and it pairs beautifully with this Empire Shawls creation.
Other 2024 Projects
1. The 1940s Hawaiian Tiki Playset
In January I had applied to teach at Costume College in Los Angeles, California in July. One of the costume events was the Vintage Tropical Tea. The Sunday tea event is always a favorite of mine.
My roommate for Costume College sent me the most wonderful fabric from her stash and it was perfect for a 1940s Hawaiian Tiki Playset sewn from a Butterick pattern from Patterns by Gertie.
Combined with a turban pattern, I made and then wore the shorts and bustier with the sarong and bolero, and had a very fun time!
2. Ribbon Flowers Classes and Tutorial
I've taught Ribbon Flowers classes at Costume College twice before and added new ribbon flowers to the class in 2024. All supplies and instructions were provided for the students and I created public video tutorials for the YouTube platform.
There wasn't time to include the daffodil in the 2024 flowers but it's still on my list for a future video tutorial.
3. The Magic Library Book Nook
I love miniatures and have wanted to create a book nook for quite a while. In 2024 I included it in my Spooky Season October makes and it was a sanity saver during Hurricane Helene.
I included a miniature of Tasha Puppy wearing her bat wings.
2024 Events
1. Mt. Dora Jane Austen Fest - February
The Jane Austen Fest in Mt. Dora, Florida was a fabulous event! The Lakeside Inn is beautiful, the town an historic gem, and the weather was perfect!
2. World War II Commemorative Event and Swing Dance - June
Although Patrick had officially retired from costuming, he couldn't resist attending this event in Fayetteville, North Carolina. We sourced vintage military wear to replicate the insignia and badges worn by his father and he wore his father's ribbons from that war. It was a truly special and memorable weekend!
3. A Summer Adventure
I was thrilled that Costume College had accepted my offer to teach and that started a plan that would span two glorious weeks in July. A flight from Charlotte, North Carolina to Denver, Colorado where a friend and I visited the Molly Brown House and had afternoon tea at the Brown Palace. Then we flew to Long Beach, California where we ferried to Catalina Island and joined friends for a three-night stay at Mt. Ada, previously the summer home of the Wrigley family.
Back to Long Beach and on to Costume College with a visit to a tea house in Pasedena and a tour of the Wrigley family home which is now headquarters for the Rose Parade.
After Costume College my roommate drove us from Los Angeles to Phoenix, Arizona, on to an incredible visit of Tombstone, then back to Phoenix where we toured and ate at another....you guessed it!...Wrigley family home. A very special tour at the Phoenix airport before I flew back to Charlotte, North Carolina and home to the tiny farmhouse.
2024 Online Classes
Costume College has been an incredible resource for me to learn costuming techniques and provides an opportunity to meet other costumers and enjoy social events with them. Online classes are another incredible resource and in 2024 I took three.
1. Edwardian Wire Frame Hat - This class was offered in January as a Costume On Master Class with organizer and instructor Chantal Filson. The finished piece will be part of a 1910s costume for 2025.
2. Pleater Board Workshop - Also offered in January by Costume On and taught by Catherine Scholar. Now I can make a board for any size and style of pleat I need!
3. Ribbonwork Workshop Series - Presented by Costumers' Guild West, open to the public, and taught by Mela Hoyt-Heydon, this was a 3-day series in April, May, and June.
The three technique-packed workshops included Vintage Ribbonwork and Trim, Floribunda, and A Bow is Never Just a Bow.
2024 Dress Diaries - Written and Audio/Visual
While creating, attending events, and learning are a large part of my costuming hobby, I have to include the work and the time commitment I make to my dress diaries. I published my first post for my blog, The Perfect Touch, on February 15, 2009. This post you are reading or listening to will be the 181st of that blog. I want to continue sharing the dress diaries in written and picture form for those wonderful followers who may find value in the patterns and processes and results I document.
I started an audio/visual channel on the YouTube platform in 2008 to hold clips that I would insert into my blog posts, but during the world health crisis in 2020 I decided to duplicate my full blog post dress diaries on that platform in audio/visual format. Not pure video, but a format where someone could sit in a comfy chair with a cup of tea and have the photos roll across the screen while I told them about the project. There would be some added video for final reveals. That platform is A Perfect Touch (only because The Perfect Touch was not available in 2008 when I started the channel).
I posted my first full dress diary on YouTube in 2020. I create and publish each one by myself and each one takes a tremendous amount of time. So I can't talk about 2024 without including the 12 blog posts that I wrote, and the 16 YouTube projects to accompany those blog posts. I'm so happy to provide the dress diaries in both formats. Here's the round-up of 2024 YouTube diaries.
The Tiny Farmhouse
While our tiny home and property is exactly right for us and Tasha Puppy, in 2024 it took a huge amount of time and funds. New roof. Chimney repair. Well pressure tank replacement. Clean and reseal all wood decks and stairs. The inevitable clean-up of large trees.
And while professionals are hired where necessary, I'm always amazed when I accomplish a project such as building and painting this new garden shed door. (My sweet neighbor did help me hang it!)
And so the sun sets on 2024. A wonderful year for the costuming hobby and the tiny farmhouse!
What's The Plan for 2025?
I'm so thankful my leg injury recovery allowed me to travel between summer 2023 and summer 2024. With all the travel and farmhouse property expenses during that time, there are no events planned for 2025. Which is a perfect time to catch up on the Dress Diaries!
Dress Diaries
Of the 12 Historical Sew Monthly projects for 2024, only 4 have had dress diaries published. The remaining are:
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The 1930s Sporty Topper, View 5 |
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The Victorian Holiday Barbie |
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The Downton Abbey Tiered Ensemble |
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The Downton Abbey Cloche |
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The Scotty Hip Pad |
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The Spectator Coat and Turban |
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The Regency Wrapping Front Spencer |
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The 1930s Pajamas With Jacket |
The 1940s Hawaiian Tike Playset was another 2024 make not yet published in a dress diary.
That's 9 projects from 2024.
Then there are the makes for the 1930s Wardrobe most of which were made as far back as 2022. There is quite a list of those but many of the makes I've already shared around social media. There are 16.
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The Amy Suit in heather gray and red silk. You've already seen the dress without jacket worn to a 2024 WWII event as a French singer in the company of a handsome aviator. |
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The Lady Marlowe Blouse in parachute silk. |
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The Lady Marlowe Split Skirt in coordinating black and red patterned fabrics. |
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Amelia Earhart ankle-length jods in black velvet with embroidered buttons. |
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Wearing History Katharine Hepburn-inspired black velvet trousers. |
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Vogue Pattern hat and bag in black velveteen. |
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VPLL 1930s Ensemble of Hat, Collar, and Bag in red velveteen. |
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VPLL Day Dress with Bow in Black with White Dots Rayon |
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Wearing History Sporty Topper View 3 in Black and White |
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Wearing History Promenade Deck day dress with cape in amethyst crepe. |
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VPLL Coat and Collar in Black and White Plaid and Black Faux Fur |
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VPLL Evening Gown in Black Velvet and Striped Organza |
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Out of a Portrait tutorial for an Escoffion created with black metallic ribbon and pearls. |
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Depew Patterns Evening Wrap in red with gold velvet. |
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Wearing History Manhattan Evening Dress in burgundy satin and silver. |
And after dancing the night away...
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Two pair of Comfy Slippers pattern by Nichole Rudolph in orange and lavender felt. |
Where are we now? 25 dress diaries to be created and published..
The Tissot Recreation
One other project finished in 2022 and still waiting on some detail and a dress diary is my recreation of a dress shown often in Tissot paintings.
I used McCalls patterns designed by Angela Clayton to create a black and white striped Victorian gown. The organza overlay is studded with faux pearls and I love the huge butt bow.
I have this pattern for the cape and it will need a bonnet, and a red and black plaid blanket. Then I'll be ready for a photoshoot at the boat landing or park.
1920s Gold Party Dress
I haven't published a dress diary for the gold 1920s Party Dress made for the Art Deco Weekend on the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California years ago.
1920s Paris Promenade Dress
And then the 1920s Paris Promenade Dress which is made with glow-in-the-dark constellation fabric and worn to the Planetarium on the Queen Mary 2 in 2023.
Now the total Dress Diaries to be created and published is up to 28.
Other Diaries
But speaking of the Queen Mary 2, I haven't summarized that trip in 2023 wearing the 1930s Wardrobe, nor the events attended in 2024. I would also like to add to my Costume Flashback series by sharing the organizing and hosting of the Victorian Valentine Weekend near Old Salem Museum and Gardens in Winston-Salem, North Carolina in 2019. Here we socialized, toured, costumed, and I taught millinery, parasol recovering, and fan-making. I would love to organize another retreat like that!
Back to the Beginning
On August 2, 2020, I published my first project on the YouTube platform. It was an 1870s Carriage Gown in 9 parts inspired by cupcakes I had recently decorated. There was to be a blouse, skirt, silk flowers from a class offered online by Romantic Recollections, a carriage bodice, beetlewing-embroidered reticule on a belt, bonnet, recovered parasol, fan, and a celebration with cookies and tea.
Shortly after I started publishing on YouTube I joined a wonderful online group of costuming YouTube creators nicknamed Costubers. I got very involved with the group taking part in many collaborations.
#historicalhalloween2020
#homefortheholidays2020
#historicaldisneycostume
#whimsicalteawitches
#gunnesaxoween
#pocketswap2021
#holidayapron
#secretsanta2021
#costubecooks
#stashswap2022
And.....#gunnesnacks
I met wonderful and very talented creators. I had great experiences sewing many new-to-me projects. 2025 is the year to go Back to the Beginning and 1870s Carriage Gown project is back in the queue for completion in 2025. The beauty of historical sewing - it never goes out of style!
The Downton Abbey Movie 3
The third Downton Abbey movie is scheduled for release in 2025. After attending a Costume On lecture I was inspired to recreate an ensemble from the Les Petites Dames de Mode collection. I have a pattern, taupe crepe satin and lace overlay fabrics. I envision a special tea and movie viewing in this ensemble.
Also for a Downton Abbey weekend is this inspiration - 1910s Barbie - Promenade in the Park. The Edwardian Wire Frame Hat was started for this project. I have the fabric, patterns, and, most importantly, the perfect shoes.
The Pumpkin Bustle Gown
Sometimes the universe offers up a gift and that happened when I was inspired by this 1883 Harper's Bazar illustration. It was after the autumn season and this embroidered linen was slashed in price with just enough for an overskirt. A Pumpkin Tea seems appropriate, wouldn't you agree?
Holiday Barbie 2025
In keeping with tradition, the 2025 Holiday Barbie has been chosen and she will be the sixth of these Hallmark Special Edition dolls that I will have recreated in wearable size. This one is Victorian Elegance Barbie. She wears a very plush Victorian ensemble and is boxed with replica Hallmark cards and the cutest skates. I will keep an eye out for the perfect fabrics at the perfect price. Wish me luck! I have a fun surprise for you with this project!
That completes the 2024 Wrap-Up and the plans and dreams for 2025. Wishing you a joyful and peaceful 2025 full of love, laughter, and your favorite tea!
Hugs,
Jeanette