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The last blog post and video I created for you shared the inspiration and sewing of the 1825 Evening Gown for the Lafayette Birthday Ball and Soirée in Fayetteville, North Carolina.
YouTube Companion Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0jf8Sr9aVI
Blog Post: http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2024/03/sewing-1825-gown-ipartiedwithlafayette.html
In this blog post and video I will share the accessories for that gown: a turban, a reticule, and the other perfect touches for that special event.
Companion YouTube Video: https://youtu.be/kaqlGsIG-VU
At the end of this blog post and video I'll tell you of that special evening and all the wonderful details leading up to the Lafayette Birthday Ball and Soirée. Let's get started.
The Turban
The Ackermann's Repository 1825 illustration shows a soft crown turban style headdress.
There is a gold band at the base and gold fabric woven through the wrapped style.
I'm using Wingeo WN714 - 1795 - 1825 Regency Era Turban Pattern.
There are three pattern pieces: a buckram band, a crown, and a lining.
The buckram is cut using the pattern and stitched at the back.
The fabric for the crown is the plum satin also used for the gown. The lining is a coral silk. Both pieces are cut using the pattern.
Gathering stitches are sewn on the crown as indicated on the pattern.
The crown is gathered and pinned to the buckram band and then basted in place.
The lining seam is sewn closed and sewn over the crown at the lower edge. For my turban I left the lining edge unfinished as it would be covered by the woven ribbon.
The same woven ribbon used on the Evening Gown is handstitched to the lower edge of the turban through all layers and at both edges of the ribbon.
With the base complete it is time to sew the turban wrappings. I'll be using three fabrics; the embroidered ribbed organza used on the sleeves of the gown with an underlayer of highly reflective metallic gold stretch poly, and the plum satin. All fabrics are cut to the lengths as directed for your chosen fabric weights.
The long edges of the satin and the organza with the gold underlayer are sewn with a narrow hem.
One short end of each fabric is sewn together with gathering stitches and gathered as tightly as possible.
The gathered end is sewn to the center back of the turban base and the layers wound around each other tucking the machine sewn hems where they won't be visible. This took a few trials until I found a wrapping that I liked and then I tacked the ends and the wrapping in several places to the base.
The pattern includes some decorating suggestions and one included a button at the center front or side. I had a large button blank and covered it with the satin. A medallion was cut from the woven ribbon and glued to the center of the button.
A vintage feather in an ecru color seemed right to pick up the ecru lace on the sleeves of the gown and I tried the feather and button in several locations on the turban.
The finished turban is so easy to wear since the lining sits nicely on the head and stays put without any combs or pins. It was comfortable to wear for the entire evening!
I love the way the gold underlayer really shines through in low light.
The Reticule
The reticule pattern I'm using is from the La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe. I love the size of this reticule especially as it is perfect for my smartphone.
Two pieces of fabric are cut from the plum satin for the exterior of the reticule.
Two pieces are cut from the coral silk for the lining. The metallic embroidered net which was not used for the gown sleeves is now used as an overlay on the front of the reticule.
The overlay is stitched to the satin along the top edge of the overlay.
The front and back satin and overlay pieces are sewn at the outer edges leaving openings where the drawstrings will be threaded into the reticule.
The lining pieces are sewn together at the outer edges leaving a small opening where the reticule will be turned right side out after the outside and lining are sewn together.
With right sides together the top edge is sewn.
The outer fabric is pulled through the opening left in the lining and the opening stitched closed. The lining is then smoothed to the inside of the reticule.
Two lines of stitching are sewn through both layers of the reticule. One line will be slightly above the openings left in the outer fabric, and the other will be slightly below.
Two drawstrings are cut from ribbon. One will be threaded through an opening on one side and go all the way around the reticule coming out the same opening. The process is repeated for a drawstring through the opening on the other side.
The ends of each drawstring are knotted and when pulled the reticule closes.
Five silk tassels sewn to each point enhance the gold metallic net overlay and contrast nicely when held against the satin gown.
The Jewelry
The Ackermann's Repository illustration has a beautiful necklace and I felt it was important that my recreation had a statement piece. I started that search very early in the gown creation and with only my phone and a piece of the woven ribbon, looked at hundreds of possible jewelry sets.
While the illustration set appears as a blue and gold, the woven ribbon looked beautiful against a coral and gold set found on Etsy offered by Allures d'Antan in France.
Other Touches
An ecru silk embellished shawl with knotted fringe is an accessory I've used many times as are the ecru gloves beaded along the wrist edges.
A pair of velvet shoes seemed a nice touch with the velvet ribbon at the hem of the gown.
The Finished 1825 Evening Gown and Accessories
A collection of photos taken after the event since the gown was finished just minutes before!
The Lafayette Birthday Ball and Soirée
Preparation and excitement for the September Lafayette Birthday Ball and Soirée began months before the event. And it was more than sewing and accessorizing. For me it began in June when I attended the Foundations Lecture hosted by Rebecca of Beespoke Vintage in Fayetteville, North Carolina. Here we received a swag bag and information of the Bicentennial of Lafayette's Farewell Tour in 2024 and 2025.
An incredible surprise arrived one day! It was my personal invitation to the Ball! What an absolute delight!!
Over the weeks before the Ball our host, Rebecca, would send information regarding the Ball, including the schedule of events, the additional meet-up and dinner available, the games and exhibitions that would be included. She held a contest for Signature Cocktails to be served during the Ball, and so much more! It was so much extra leading up to the night of a spectacular event!
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September arrives and the Friday before the Birthday Ball is travel day. Driving to Fayetteville through Greensboro includes afternoon tea at the O Henry Hotel. Named after the world-renowned short story writer William Sydney Porter, born in Greensboro, pen name O Henry. The interior of the hotel is glorious and the tea is a perfect beginning to an elegant weekend.
That evening all who wish meet up for a casual meal followed by a screening of Austenland at the Cameo Art House in Fayetteville. While there were movie-goers in era appropriate costume looking fabulous, I accessorized with my Hamilton Spencer, Regency riding boots, a leather crop, and a Tally-Ho reticule made just for this event.
Saturday came in like a lion with gray skies and thunderstorms. The Lafayette Society of Fayetteville was hosting a Birthday celebration in Lafayette Park that day complete with cupcakes. I was prepared with my white gown, pink spencer, and new pink feathered beret. Sadly, the storms kept everyone inside but for a brief walk through the deserted Park between downpours.
As if on cue, the rain held off long enough for a quick dash to Circa 1800 for our pre-Ball dinner.
It was during dinner that our host, Rebecca, gave us our envelopes for our bookings. My Duchess level reservation included a horse-drawn carriage ride to the event venue, a card to present for an announcement of my arrival at the venue, signature drink tickets, a dance card, and ticket for my souvenir bag.
While it had again poured rain all through dinner, the skies magically cleared just long enough for all the horse-drawn carriage rides to whisk their passengers to the venue.
Our tables were adorned with beribboned bags with information from the Lafayette Society.
The musicians were talented, the Dance Mistress a joy. The young Lafayette was portrayed by Rebecca's son who has just celebrated the birthday Lafayette was when he first arrived in the American colonies. Lynn Bull portrayed Lafayette upon his return to the United States in 1824. There was, of course, a beautiful and delicious birthday cake and we sang Le Marseillaise and Hail Columbia.
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Throughout the gorgeous and spacious venue were exhibits and period-appropriate games.
I reconnected with friends I haven't seen in a very long time and spent time with others that are now new friends.
While I was having such a great time and forgot to take photos and videos, there was a professional photographer with a fitting backdrop and I posed in my best Ackermann's Repository recreation pose.
At the end of the evening I visited the Vault and Claudia Zamora for a personal reading. Very insightful! And a bit spooky!
My personal souvenir bag had lots of goodies! All thoughtfully designed by our host Rebecca of Beespoke Vintage.
Home Again
I'm so happy I've been able to share this journey with you! This was an incredible event hosted with all beautiful thought and great effort. A true success! And wonderful introduction to the Bicentennial Lafayette Farewell Tour that will cross many states in 2024 and 2025 giving all who choose a chance to remember and celebrate the difference that one person can make in history.
The Historical Sew Monthly
Challenge - May 2023 Hair Apparel
The Challenge: Make something worn in the hair or on the head.
What the item is: Regency Era Turban
How it fits the Challenge: Worn on the head.
Materials: Satin, metallic embroidered organza, silk for lining, woven ribbon.
Pattern: Wingeo WN714 - 1795 - 1825 Regency Era Turban
Year: Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries
Notions: Button blank, vintage feather, thread, buckram
How historically accurate is it? Unsure of the accuracy of the pattern or method of construction, but it did produce a very comfortable turban that was wearable for the entire evening and stayed in place without any pins. I wanted to recreate the brow band in the inspiration illustration and this pattern made that possible.
Hours to complete: 10 hours
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $50.
How it fits the Challenge: Worn on the head.
Materials: Satin, metallic embroidered organza, silk for lining, woven ribbon.
Pattern: Wingeo WN714 - 1795 - 1825 Regency Era Turban
Year: Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries
Notions: Button blank, vintage feather, thread, buckram
How historically accurate is it? Unsure of the accuracy of the pattern or method of construction, but it did produce a very comfortable turban that was wearable for the entire evening and stayed in place without any pins. I wanted to recreate the brow band in the inspiration illustration and this pattern made that possible.
Hours to complete: 10 hours
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted but if I had to purchase all materials I would estimate $50.
Challenge - October 2023 HSM Lookbook
The Challenge: We have so many talented costumers in the HSM community! Make something inspired by someone else's HSM project from an earlier month/year.
What the item is: Regency Reticule
How it fits the Challenge: I've always loved the tasseled reticules such as Leimomi Oakes and Alyssa Nunley created for the November 2018 Challenge. This reticule was perfect to follow their inspiration.Material: Satin, silk lining, metallic embroidered net
Pattern: La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year: Regency Era
Notions: Silk tassels, thread, satin ribbon
How historically accurate is it? As depicted in many Regency illustrations but machine sewn.
Hours to complete: 1 hour
First worn: The Lafayette Birthday Ball in September 2023
Total cost: The satin was gifted, but if I had to purchase all items I would estimate $10
