I've been so excited to start the 1910s Suit-A-Long with Lauren at Wearing History! In the last Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge I made a 1910s corset and am currently sewing the camisole, bloomers, and petticoat. I have a wonderful blue/green/ivory patterned fabric for the skirt, a very light ivory linen for the jacket, and then I found this amazing lace in the remnant bin at Mary Jo's Cloth Store.
These beautiful green flowers are left over from another project but the blue curled feathers and hatband are vintage and a perfect match for the suit.
For some unknown-to-me reason I woke up the other day with this crazy fear that the hat was not going to turn out well. And without the hat the entire suit couldn't be worn to Costume College. While I've made hats from both buckram and wire, I've never made a lace hat and I've never made a hat with a hat block. Maybe that was the basis for my concern, but whatever it was I decided that to put all that to rest I best set everything else aside and make this hat.
The pattern is by Lynn McMasters and has many amazing options. I've used her patterns before and they fit together beautifully. This pattern has so many wonderful options for buckram, wire, and a combination of both.
I'm using the pink/black option on the pattern cover which is a combination of buckram crown and wire brim. The first thing I have to do is create a curved crown tip with a hat block. Lynn McMasters has information in the pattern on where to purchase a hat block and exactly what to purchase or how to use a shape you may already have from a bowl or other item. The directions are perfect in how to form the buckram crown tip and how to cut it to fit the sideband. This is the hat block with a gently curved top and covered with plastic to protect it while the buckram dries to the shape.
The next photo shows the cutting line that is created using a reverse cardboard template made from the crown tip pattern. The instructions are in the pattern.
The directions are also perfect to instruct how to attach the tip to the sideband, attach the millinery wire to the sideband, attach the bias strip or French elastic, and then how to cover the entire crown with mull/flannel.
Since my lace is slightly different than what the pattern calls for I had to alter the directions slightly. I cut my millinery wire, connected the ends with a wire joiner, and then sprayed it with fabric spray paint so that it would blend in with my color.
I have a base lace for the brim and then an edge trim of braid and lace with small pearls woven through.