Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #23 - Modern History

If we see you smoking we will assume you are on fire and take appropriate action.

 ~Douglas Adams

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #22 was Gentlemen and I made a smoking jacket for Patrick.  He's going to wear it for our late night get-togethers with friends on the Victorian Dance Cruise next month.

He liked how comfortable it is and I thought it would be fun to have one of my own.  And not just for the cruise, but for everyday modern wear.  Something different than my normal sweatshirt and sweatpants would be a welcome change.

I used the Folkwear 238 pattern designed for 1930s style.  It contains all men's and ladies' sizes in the same package.

 

Where I had used a black cotton matelassé for Patrick's contrast collar, cuffs, and pocket trim, I used a modern polyester fabric for mine.  The fabric had been given to a friend by his friend who had sewn custom home furnishings, my friend gave it (and some other treasures) to me (everyone knows I'll take any and all free fabric), and there was just enough for the trim on my smoking jacket.  This is a close-up of my trim fabric and the fun pins I found at a craft store which will become my necklace to wear with my smoking jacket during the Victorian Dance Cruise.

 

Isn't the little thimble just perfect for a necklace for someone who sews?

 

Since this is for modern wear, here are my photos with a modern dilemma - learning to use a new phone!

 

Okay, this shouldn't be too difficult....

 

hmmmm.....a little more difficult than I thought.

 

All right!  All figured out!

 

The primary use of all smart phones - the selfie!  With eyes closed, of course!

 

Now for some photos of the puppy, Patrick, lunch, the fallen leaves,...well you know how it goes.

 

Oops, almost forgot - the back of my new modern smoking jacket.

Love,

Jeanette

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Ladies' Smoking Jacket

The Challenge:  #23 Modern History

Fabric:  Cotton twill and polyester trim

Pattern:  Folkwear 238

Year:  1930s for modern wear

Notions:  Thread

How historically accurate is it?  Use of modern fabric with historic styling.

Hours to complete?  5 hours

First Worn:  Photos and January 2015 Event

Total Cost:  Several yards for the body and free trim, total less than $10.

 

Since you've read this far I'll show you my newest little auction find for this costume.  Squeee!  Aren't they pretty with all their embroidery, beads, and sequins?

 

 







Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #22 - Choice - Gentlemen

Quitting smoking is easy, I've done it hundreds of times.

Mark Twain

 

Imagine that when dinner is over our gentleman has retired to the smoking room.  He has put on his smoking jacket, his symbol of a time of leisure and reflection, and quiet meditation.  He still looks distinguished in this now iconic casual dress.  As far back as the 17th century when spices, tobacco, coffee and silks began flowing from India, Asia, and the Americas, our gentlemen have taken these habits and dress.  The smoking jacket, a kind of short robe or dressing gown made with luxurious fabrics, bright colors, and bold trim, survived into the mid 20th century.

 

This wonderful page will lead you through a brief history and pictures of the smoking jacket:

http://coolmaterial.com/style/the-history-of-the-smoking-jacket/

Some modern famous wearers include Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Hugh Hefner, Fred Astaire who was buried in one, and the Third Doctor of Doctor Who.

 

It's now time for my gentleman, my husband Patrick, to wear his own symbol of leisure.  "But I don't smoke!", says he.  So I tell him it's also fitting for a late evening drink and he brings out the Maker's Mark, his favorite Kentucky Bourbon.

 

The basic smoking jacket appears little changed through the years and I use Folkwear 238 pattern for both gentlemen and ladies.

I have a deep rust cotton twill and a black cotton matelassé in the fabric stash and cut out the pattern pieces.

Assembly is very straightforward and Patrick is ready for that bourbon.

"Here I am.  What am I supposed to do?"

 

Here is Patrick with his new smoking jacket looking all the dashing gentleman at leisure.  No Smoking.

 

 

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Gentleman's Smoking Jacket

The Challenge:  #22 - Choice - Gentlemen

Fabric:  Cotton twill, cotton matelassé

Pattern:  Folkwear 238

Year:  1880 plus or minus 70 years

Notions:  thread

How historically accurate is it?  The use of bold and bright colors, the shawl collar, and the overall impression are accurate.  Historically the fabrics would have perhaps been richer silks and velvets.

Hours to complete?  5 hours due to the amount of hand sewing

First worn:  Photos and for the pajama party at the Victorian Dance Cruise in January.

Total Cost:  The fabric was all in the stash but requires just under 3 yards for a large size.

 

Love always,

Jeanette