The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #12 - Re-Do

December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges. - The Dreamstress

Finally!  My December 2015 Challenge and my 39th completed Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge!  But it almost didn't happen....

 

In the spirit of keeping things simple I decide to add to what was my greatest challenge in all of 2015 - Out of Your Comfort Zone.  This was the June 2015 Challenge and I made my first-ever-and-scared-to-death-to-do-it Regency gown.  I wore it to Costume College that summer and even taught a class wearing the gown since I was teaching how to make ribbon flower pansies and I had decorated my hat with those flowers.

June 2015 Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge - Our Of Your Comfort Zone

 

This is the blog post for that Challenge:

http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2015/09/historical-sew-monthly-challenge-6-out.html

 

My inspiration for this Regency gown was an ensemble from the Kyoto Costume Institute.

 

There may be a day where I will encourage my husband to join me in this era, but that day is not now.  I do, however, want to create a Spencer - a short jacket. The pattern I used for the gown is a complete wardrobe and has a wonderful Spencer pattern with options for two different collars, a peplum, and oversleeves.  The pattern is Regency Wardrobe by La Mode Bagatelle.

 

 

Being short on time and long on a stash fabric of embroidered linen that I purchased from the same costumer who sold me the white linen for the gown, I go immediately into a final sewing.

 

All pieces and lining cut and ready.

Lining for front.  Notice the 3/4" shortness of the front piece?  That happened with the outer layer as well and I still don't know why, but I simply tapered the lower edge into the side piece and made a note to revise if I make this pattern again.  Note to self - always make a mock-up.

Lining back.

Tabs for sleeves.

 

Pieces ready for assembly onto the main body of the Spencer - lower band, peplum, collar with tassel, lined sleeves with lace and tabs.

Collar ready for assembly to the main bodice.

Collar basted to bodice.

Lining attached.

 



Back with collar.

Front with collar.

 

Lower band is added, peplum attached, and band lining stitched in place.

 

Attach the sleeves, some hand finishing because there wasn't time to be historically accurate and hand sew ALL THE THING, and I have a pretty pink Spencer for my Regency gown.  I really love the color and in different lighting it changes to a beautiful dusty rose color.

 



 

At this point it's the holidays, work assignments, cold weather, and a determination on my part to have some wonderful photos of this ensemble being worn.  When I wore the gown I was nervous as it was completely 'out of my comfort zone' as the named Challenge.  Although many people saw it at Costume College I didn't receive one comment about the gown.  When I finally posted it in the Challenge album there wasn't a single comment and only 9 'likes'.  While still hesitating to wear, photo, and post my final Challenge for 2015 I create a two-tone feather inspired by this portrait.

 

I clipped the feathers off each side of two different color feathers and then ladder stitched them together.  It worked well and I see other multi-colored feathers in my future!

 

My husband has graciously agreed to be a photographer for a day and I ready everything.  Then it rains.  While combing the stash for a fabric for my next project I spy this lonely little remnant and decide it is the perfect color for a reticule for my ensemble and the La Mode Bagatelle pattern already contains a wonderful design.  So as to not lose my nerve about the photo shoot, I make up this pretty reticule.

 

The exterior and the lining and my go-to tool for sewing points - a wooden chopstick.

Thread the ribbon completely around from one side...

Thread a second ribbon completely around from the other side and knot the ends.

Pull the ribbons and you have a pretty reticule to carry your cell phone.



It is now March 21st, the second day of spring and the weeping willow tree in our front yard is in full bloom.  It is clear and sunny but very windy and my husband and I enjoy a spring day with me in a very spring-like Regency gown and accessories.  Thank you, hubby!!

Historical Sew Fortnightly

What It Is:  Regency Spencer and Accessories
The Challenge:  2015 #12 - Re-Do
Fabric:  Linen and cotton lining
Pattern:  La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year:  1812
Notions:  Thread, tassel, frog closures, lace
How historically accurate is it?  Primarily machine stitched with hand finishing.
Hours to complete?  8 hours
First Worn:  Today for photos.
Total Cost:  $18

Love always,

Jeanette

Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #6 - Out Of Your Comfort Zone

June – Out of Your Comfort Zone: Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

The Dreamstress

Historical Sew Monthly

 

There was never a doubt as to what garment I was going to create for this Challenge and there was never a doubt that it was so far out of my comfort zone that I had no clue where to start.  Since I was going to be attending Costume College 2015 and the theme for the Sunday morning event was Breakfast with the Bennetts, this was going to be my maiden voyage into the Regency Era.  Research yielded wonderful inspiration and I realized that I might enjoy this new era.  This is the Kyoto Costume Institute exhibit that set my heart racing and if I were going to make only one Regency era costume in my life, this would be my inspiration!

 

It seems easier to venture into new eras of costume now that I have been sewing and blogging and making friends with some amazing costumers.  It was through some of these other costumers' recommendations that I found the pattern that I ultimately used for my project.  La Mode Bagatelle offers a Regency wardrobe in a single package.
 

The package contains patterns and a full instruction booklet for a wardrobe from the inside out and top to hem including trim and embroidery instructions.  There is a wonderful explanation of the pattern pieces to use for a riding habit and the luck continued from there!

 

A few years ago I purchased a sample hat from a costume hat pattern designer.  While the hat was in the style of the 1860s I noticed the style was also used during the Regency period  and similar to my inspiration although the sides of the brim were turned upward a bit more than my hat.  I had also purchased an embroidered linen fabric from the same milliner and it was a the fabric she had used for the hat.  What luck!  I had also purchased some beautiful dusty rose embroidered linen from her which would make a beautiful Spencer.  Since I had to teach a ribbon flower class at Costume College I decided to embellish the hat with ribbon pansies I had made.  I had a pair of dove gray shoes with a Regency impression, a length of dove gray chiffon, and purchased dove gray leather gloves.  My plan was complete!
 

 

Another stroke of luck as my class is scheduled for 9AM the same morning as the Breakfast with the Bennetts at Costume College.  I wear my finished gown and accessories to a beautiful breakfast and then to my Ribbon Flower class and find that Regency is quite comfortable although with the train I only have one hand to use at any given time as the other is holding my train so that I can move around the room.  Apparently that is a vintage pose!

 

While I'm waiting for my photos from Costume College to appear on the photographer's website, I'll show you the finished photos that I took at home.  Notice the pretty silk shawl?  A lucky find at the airport bookstore on my way to Costume College!  $14.99 and the colors were perfect.  It is shorter than those worn during the period but if they had had another at the bookstore, my shawl would be twice as long.  *smile*   Also lucky because with the pressure of packing in June for a move on July 7, there wasn't time to sew the Spencer.  But I'll save that for the Re-Do Challenge in December.

 

And here is my finished Out of My Comfort Zone Regency gown!

 

First, the bodiced petticoat.  I used coutil for the lining of the bodice and it is boned in four places.  There is a casing and drawstring on the entire upper edge.  It is made from a bleached muslin with a cotton lace at the lower edge.

 

The petticoat is extremely supportive and provides the perfect silhouette for a Regency impression, however, it is not modest by any definition.  So I'll share this photo on my dressform just to give you an idea of what I mean.

 



 

For the gown I chose the crossover bodice option with trained skirt and short sleeves.

  

 

 

 

The July Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge is called Accessorize and for that month I made the chiffon scarf and chemisette for the Regency costume.  I'll share a photo here so that you can see the complete costume although I do have a blog post for those accessories.  I have to admit, the entire costume was such fun to wear!!

 

 

Now I'll put this post in my draft folder while I wait for the photographer's photos. 

 

Edited September 11, 2015

 

The Costume College photographer's photos are available and I had such fun with the people at Costume College during Sunday morning's breakfast as well as the Ribbon Flower class I taught afterward.  The costumers are such wonderful people and every moment of Costume College is special!

 

 

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Regency Era Gown

The Challenge:  #6 Out Of Your Comfort Zone

Fabric:  Linen, muslin

Pattern:  La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe

Year:  1812

Notions:  Ribbon, buttons

How historically accurate is it?  The Regency impression seems good as compared to my research but due to time constraints I used a sewing machine for the gown and bodiced petticoat.

Hours to complete?  20 hours

First Worn:  Breakfast With The Bennetts at Costume College 2015

Total Cost: $55

 

Love always,

Jeanette