Saturday, June 5, 2021

An Edwardian Mistress of Evil - The Plan


Definition of Cubbyhole:  

cub·​by·​hole | \ ˈkə-bē-ˌhōl 

a small snug place (as for hiding or storage)also a cramped space
The Merriam-Webster definition and also the nickname of my tiny sewing space.  And right now it is completely overflowing!  There are four costumes and projects in progress as it has been difficult to find the perfect fabrics, perfect colors, perfect trims, and perfect touches, all at the perfect price,  to complete each one.  There is the 1870s Carriage Gown which has been in progress for months waiting on the silk roses class:

And the Hamilton Spencer awaiting the right shirt pattern and perfect boots to wear with my skirt:

And a 1900 antique parasol awaiting recovering.  I've now taken the class and the recovering is almost finished!

The fourth costume is for #historicaldisneycostume, an ongoing collaboration with costumers all over the world.  It was just a small step when I finished A Wicked Witch to move to my choice for an historical Disney - Maleficent:  The Mistress of Evil.  And here is The Plan.

Those glorious sleeves!  I was immediately reminded of the Poiret Cocoon Coat with its bat wing sleeves and hobble skirt.  I've used the Folkwear Pattern 503 before and love the way the the single piece creates half of both the front and back and sleeve in one beautiful design.

I was inspired by internet images to create the Cocoon Coat design from a fabric called Magic Black Abstract Geometric Burnout Velvet, lined with a Dusty Lilac Crepe Back Satin.  The satin is a high luster and I'm imagining it will be a beautiful but subdued backinh to the semi-sheer burnout velvet.

Surrounding the neckband will be a trim of iridescent coque feathers to add just that bit of luminous green.

To create the glorious lavender collar under the Cocoon Coat, I'll be using Depew Patterns 1914 Dress a Corselet #3123.  The fabric is a Black Crepe Back Satin, the collar made from the Dusty Lilac Crepe Back Satin, and the corselet from the burnout velvet backed with the lilac satin.

The last part of the costume will be a 1910s Paul Poiret inspired single wrapped turban, View A, from Lynn McMasters' Early 20th Century Turbans pattern.

Those are the patterns, fabrics, trim and design ideas - and, as always, subject to change at a moment's whim.  :)

There was a perfect touch that caught my eye and kept me awake at night until I made the purchase.  A necklace with peridot stones and a silhouette which reminded of the Maleficent headdress from the movie.

Part Two - The Dress `a Corselet - Coming Soon!

Companion Video for this Blog Post:

Saturday, May 29, 2021

I Made A Beaded Reticule - For Everyone! #costumeflashback


This is #costumeflashback where I share one costumer's journey in learning and enjoying this creative hobby.  

Black.  Navy.  Camel.  Grey.

Grey.  Camel.  Navy.  Black.

Camel.  Navy.  Black.  Grey.

Gets a bit boring, doesn't it?  It did for me!  But those were acceptable business colors during my business career and I had the coordinating shoes and bags in each color as well.  Then I discovered costuming!  A world of color!

I had so much to learn and I knew it since my color and design skills were untested.  I knew I couldn't yet sew the clothing, so I purchased my first gown on eBay which was for an upcoming Victorian Tea and Architectural Tour.

Then I found a kit to create what was to be my first costume accessory - a beaded reticule.

The kit contained everything I needed to learn basic beading, basic ribbon embroidery skills, and assembly.

The finished reticule is just barely large enough for my car keys, but it will be perfect and I'm so thrilled to have learned so much!

To give myself more practice with design and color I offered to make beaded reticules for costumers I knew in an online group.  Josie was first.

She sent me fabric from a gown she was making and I selected beads and silk ribbon and scaled up the kit pattern I already had and dove in with bead and embroidery design.  

Gina was also making a gown and sent me some of her fabric.  I found the most perfect beads for her butterscotch colored fabric.  I learned how to print a transfer to iron on a cotton for the lining and included her gown inspiration on the inside of the reticule.

Loving the reticule I had created for her, Gina asked me to create one for her Mom's gown.  She sent me some fabric and I chose the bead designs.


Kathleen had recreated a gown from a Tissot painting and I was thrilled to create a coordinating reticule with her fabric, my bead design, and another transferred inspiration on the reticule lining.

This Victorian Natural Form Era gown is made from the skirt of a champagne gown won on eBay and a bodice and train made by my friend Goldie.  Didn't she do beautiful work??!!  I made a beaded reticule with scrap fabric which shows up so beautifully when suspended from a chatelaine.

Locating these photos on my old computer was a walk down memory lane!  I already had a miniature mare and miniature stallion, Honey and Buddy.  And the year I'm on my reticule journey I found Celtic Cowboy and we were both in training to drive a miniature cart.  Isn't he just the cutest?!

The fabric Kathy sent was so gorgeous I didn't need to add much embellishment except for the bead drapes.  As with all the other reticules, the handle is also beaded.

Goldie made a beautiful recreation of a gown from an 1879 Peterson's Magazine fashion plate.  I added a coordinating reticule and later a bonnet (but that's for the next #costumeflashback).

Beth was recreating a stunning Worth gown and sent fabric, trim, and some of the embellishments she was using on the gown.  Swarovski heaven!

Malinda and I had shopped together one day and she purchased a panel of the most amazing fabric and designed the most amazing gown around that panel.  I designed a reticule to compliment but not detract from her design using all the colors in the panel.

Katie had no idea what a surprise was coming her way!  A group of costumers had assembled to create a new royal purple and gold ballgown ensemble and it would be presented to her during a convention.  I was honored to be asked to make the beaded reticule.

The last beaded reticule I would make of this dozen was a giveaway won by Clancy in Australia.  She immediately guessed which bead patterns belonged to whose reticule.  She sent me fabric and her design, and I created her beaded reticule with piped edging, a beaded handle matching the piping design, and with her gown inspiration transferred to the lining.

These were my first dozen beaded reticules.  Making them for friends was so much fun and I took away skills that have served me well throughout my costuming journey!  It's my hope that sharing my journey will inspire you to begin your own and enjoy the fun and friends that costuming can bring!  Thank you for being here!