Sewing a 1931 Evening Wrap

 YouTube Companion Video:  https://youtu.be/sYlJqY_yejs

Having an evening wrap is an easy and inexpensive way to transform an outfit from daytime fun to evening fabulous.  Pattern #3014 by Depew Patterns on Etsy was a perfect addition to my 1930s wardrobe.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/113633920/vintage-sewing-pattern-1930s-evening?ga_search_query=evening%2Bwrap&ref=shop_items_search_10&logging_key=93dedce95b0e109d9e5c78f26a5b8a458f4c8d20%3A113633920

The pdf version is a 7-page booklet of instructions and diagrams to make 5 different versions of evening wraps.  The pattern is originally from 1931.

I've chosen View C with those flowing sleeves and the long front tie.  There is a small diagram with measurements for cutting the fabric and three short paragraphs of assembly instructions.

During the 1930s event there is a themed evening of Red and Gold and I am thrilled to find a red velvet with gold printed pattern in a costumer's destash group.  $5.00.  I pair it with a gold crushed satin for the lining.

The first two paragraphs of the instructions outline the fabric cutting, seaming, and bias cutting for the collar and ties.

The last paragraph of the instructions is just five sentences of the final assembly.  Darts are to be sewn at the neckline, but I chose pleats to keep the gold pattern in full view.

Then the velvet and lining are sewn with right sides together at all edges except the neckline and turned right sides out.  The neckline is slipstitched to hold the fabrics together.

The collar and tie pieces are stitched leaving the opening where the collar will attach to the wrap and turned right sides out.

The upper and lower edges of the wrap are overlapped for 6" forming the sleeve effects and slipstitched.

And lastly, the collar/tie combo is pinned and then slipstitched to the neckline.

The 1931 Red and Gold Velvet Evening Wrap is finished!

Wearing the 1931 Evening Wrap

During a day on board the Queen Mary 2 I wore a simple blouse with the black velveteen trousers shares in a separate blog and video.  It was a very full day which would have an equally full evening with a ship-wide theme of Red and Gold.  A quick change from my day jacket to this evening wrap took only a few moments and I was off for dinner and an evening in the Casino.

I'm looking forward to sewing some of the other views in this pattern and highly recommend it for a quick sew and easy sew and wonderful addition to a 1930s wardrobe.

Hugs,

          Jeanette

Historical Sew Monthly - August 2023

The Challenge:  Challenge 8, August 2023: All Tied Up

Make something that closes with ties, or something that uses knots/bows as a decorative feature.

What the item is: Evening Wrap

How it fits the Challenge: The collar of this wrap extends to ties that, when knotted, hold the wrap closed.
Material: Velvet and faux satin.
Pattern: Depew Patterns 1931 5 Evening Wraps
Year: 1931
Notions: Thread
How historically accurate is it? Sewn using a vintage page with only measurements for cutting the fabric and slight instructions.
Hours to complete: 2 hours
First worn: Enjoying the Casino on the Queen Mary 2
Total cost: The wrap is slightly shorter than the instructions called for as I used a velvet piece purchased in a costumers destash group for $5. The gold faux lining was $4. 

Sewing 1930s Culottes #1930swardrobe #ladymarlowe1299

 

YouTube Companion Video:   https://youtu.be/OAsTyfktkGA

The active women of the Victorian era participated in bicycling, golf, racquet sports, and riding astride rather than sidesaddle.  This trend continued and with it the trend toward bifurcated garments to make the activities easier for participation and, in some cases, safer.  The active garment of the Victorian and Edwardian eras often gave the illusion of wearing a long skirt.

 

There were patents for these versatile garments.

And while many of the designs were intent on keeping the pants-wearing a secret...

there were those which definitely did not!

Elsa Sciaparelli.  Born 1890 in Italy.  A fashion designer and greatest rival of Coco Chanel, French fashion designer born in 1883.  Elsa Schiaparelli was a prominent figure in fashion and art between the two World Wars.

In 1931 Elsa Sciaparelli caused a scandal during a fabric shopping trip to London wearing culottes.  It was obviously no secret that these were a form of pants undisguised by panels or a wraparound skirt.

The professional tennis player, Lili de Alvarez, wore a Schiaparelli design at Wimbledon that same year.  Reporters at the Daily Mail declared "she should be soundly beaten".   

The Pattern and Fabric

Since interchangeable daywear separates are the core of my 1930s wardrobe, and comfy is key, I'm inspired by Elsa Sciaparelli and go in search of a pattern.  Lady Marlowe Patterns on Etsy has a fabulous selection of patterns from this period and I'm loving #7299.  "1933 sports culotte with relaxed fit and a divided overskirt."  Also titled 1930s Sports Trousers Culotte/Split Overskirt.  The cover illustrations with contrast colors and prints is so fun!  And there are those 1930s polka dots!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/731117917/1930s-30s-sports-trousers-culotte-split?ga_search_query=culottes&ref=shop_items_search_11&sca=1&logging_key=1b0340c6a5c10e91d3ca16b35541857fffebb551%3A731117917

There are just 7 main pattern pieces:  Trousers Front, Trousers Back, Skirt Front, Skirt Back, Skirt Side, Outside Belt, and Inside Belt.

The fabrics I have are a black cotton with a small red print, and a red cotton with a black printed overall design.

Two Trousers Backs and two Trousers Fronts are cut from the red cotton.

The skirt pieces - 2 Fronts, 2 Backs, and 2 Sides - and the outer belt are cut from the black cotton.

Sewing the Culottes

The Assembling and Sewing Guide are the original vintage instructions and just one page with numbered steps and line diagrams.  It's a simple and very clever technique and I'll keep the detail simple.  The inner leg seams and center seams of the Trousers Fronts and Backs and are joined.

Darts are sewn in the Skirt Sides at the upper edge.

 

This is where the assembly technique is so creative.  The Skirt Sides are actually the sides of the trousers as well.  The Skirt Fronts are sewn to the Skirt Sides joining in the Trousers Fronts leaving a seam opening for the final garment closure.

The skirt center back seam is sewn from the upper edge to a mark as indicated on the pattern.

The the Skirt Sides and Skirt Backs are sewn joining in the Trouser Backs.

And after quickly sewing those simple long seams here is the fun culottes ready for final finishing. 

Back with center sewn sewn part-way down.

The lower edge of the trousers and skirt are hemmed.  The side edges both front and back of the skirt are also hemmed.

The upper edge of the left skirt front is finished with a bias underfacing.

And the left side opening of the trousers gets a narrow hem.

2" wide belting is recommended for the Inside Belt, but I compromised with a ribbon used on an interior belt for my 1916 skirt and an extension of plain fabric.  I sewed the darts into my Inside Belt and sewed it to the upper edge of the culottes.

Hooks and eyes are attached where the Inside Belt edges will meet and also where the skirt front will overlap and attach to the trousers.

At this point belt straps can be created and attached.  I've omitted those since the design with the inner belt snugs the culottes tightly to the waist.  Instead I create a fabric belt with a friction buckle which will just be worn at the waist.  I can add belt straps later if I choose.

The Finished 1930s Culottes

With an especially inspired parachute silk blouse shared in a separate dress diary.

A Perfect Touch - The Tie

You know I'm all about the details and as I was planning the culottes ensemble and the Sciaparelli inspiration, I started an eBay and Etsy search for any Sciaparelli items that might add to my 1930s wardrobe.  One day an incredible item came up.  A Sciaparelli tie with a nautical theme!  What could be more perfect for a 1930s themed voyage on the Queen Mary 2?  The tie arrives and I love it!

Not knowing how to tie a tie and knowing that I will have to do this myself, I find online instructions and practice.

Success!

A Perfect Touch - The 1930s Knitted Vest

I had seen so many photos of fabulous knitted vests of the 1930s and wanted to add one to my wardrobe.  I was finding some wonderful patterns but my knitting skills are dismal.  Enter Maike of Engineering Knits.  

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFgvZeK265kSMQLXJe00vpA

She sent this photo which sent my heart aflutter.

We talked about colors and soon I received samples.

Maike sent progress photos and I knew this piece would be an absolute favorite in my 1930s wardrobe.  

And Maike is finished!  The vest is phenomenal!

The vest arrives by mail and I'm so amazed by Maike's skill and completely in love with this vest inspired by a piece of history.

Perfect!  Thank you so much, Maike!  You and this beautiful vest are both amazing!

A Perfect Touch - The Sport Shoes and Fun Stockings

My go-to guide for 1930s inspiration shows a pair of shoes for sport ensembles.

I've found a pair of dance shoes by Aris Allen.  A casual canvas wingtip in black and herringbone with a choice of laces.  These will be fun with all my casual ensembles and perfect for the daytime dance lessons.

https://arisallen.com/

The stockings are by Pamela Mann in the UK.  Made in Italy and available in a choice of colors.  I chose the black and red for this ensemble.

https://pamelamann.co.uk/

The 1930s Culottes Ensemble is Ready

Wearing the 1930s Culottes Ensemble

All items for this ensemble packed and travelled well and are usable for a variety of looks.  Here are the black rayon bra and tap pants, the red satin Kestos garter belt, the Pamela Mann stockings and Aris Alen shoes, the black velveteen hat and bag, and since I'll be having a day of dancing and sports, a red snood to tame my hair for the day.

A day that started at the pool and table tennis area on the Queen Mary 2.

And ended at the Queen Mary 2 Sports Wall dedicated to the bygone times on the original Queen Mary.

I hope you enjoyed the making of the Lady Marlowe culottes and the sharing of all the accessories that became part of this 1930s ensemble.  Thank you for being here!

Hugs,

          Jeanette

Research links for items mentioned in this blog post:

1.  https://www.dailyartmagazine.com/elsa-schiaparelli-art/

2.  https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-history-of-culottes/#:~:text=The%20bifurcated%20skirts%20of%20the,horse%20instead%20of%20riding%20sidesaddle

3.  https://genealogylady.net/2015/10/18/fashion-moments-bifurcated-skirt/