Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #16 - Terminology

Above all else, keep your colors fresh.

ɍdouard Manet  1832-1883

 

The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #16 is Terminology.  This requires us to use a term from The Historical Fashion and Textile Encyclopedia on The Dreamstress' blog:     http://thedreamstress.com/research/the-great-historical-fashion-and-textile-glossary/

 

It was also the perfect time for me to recreate the gown from the Manet painting "Spring" finished in 1882 and on display at the Hermitage Gallery in St. Petersburg, Russia.

With all the work this gown would require I was sure there was a perfect term in the Encyclopedia.  There was!  And I found it completely by accident.  Just as Manet tells us to keep our colors fresh, so do we with our art of sewing have to keep our knowledge and methods fresh.

I had purchased some yardage at auction of a bordered 80% cotton and 20% polyester floral that I planned to use for a 1950s dress.  When the fabric arrived I was delighted!  It felt so smooth and looked like it would drape and gather very well.   The colors were beautifully muted and while there was lavender rather than the blue in Manet's painting, they had the right look and went well with my gold for the bonnet I've already made...

...and the parasol I'll be making for Challenge #17 Yellow.  This pretty lavender was in my stash and since the skirt and overskirt aren't shown in the painting I had some more freedom for color and design.

With the painting being finished in 1882 which is on the verge of the Natural Form/Late Bustle periods, I took my cue from the painting and felt that Jeanne Demarcy was not wearing a bustle.  I chose three Truly Victorian patterns for this very spring-like gown:  TV420 1879 Cuirass Bodice, TV221 1878 Underskirt, and TV326 1880 Hermione Overskirt.

I thought my fabric was a calico, but as I researched the definition I realized the all-over small floral print was not correct for a calico.  So I studied The Dreamstress' Encyclopedia and thought that since my fabric was sheer it might be a voile.

My fabric is extremely smooth, a very light weave, and drapes beautifully although it can hold a soft shape - all attributes of a voile.  I read and watched several informational pieces on the internet and I'll share them here since they were helpful to me and might be to you if you are a fabric novice like me.

1.  http://www.stitchnsave.com/Voile.asp 

2.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLQZhGTmapM&feature=youtu.be&cm_mmc=Email-_-2011%20You%20Tube-_-video-_-Voile

3.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Nl8jrwWSs



While no one seems to agree on how to pronounce voile (foil, vawl, voil), they all do agree on how wonderful it is to work with and how beautiful it is for garments.  I completely agree!  In fact, I can't wait to work with voile again!  Since the bodice needed to be interlined I used a bleached cotton muslin and then used that same muslin to line the borders used on the panniers, apron, and skirt hem.  Leaving the remainder of the panniers and apron unlined allowed the lavender to color those portions of the gown and I really love the way the portions of the gown are in differing shades.

 

Here are some in progress photos.

The finished apron of the overskirt.

The bordered and pleated finished pannier portion of the overskirt.

The panniers laid over the apron to complete the front of the overskirt.

The inside back portion of the overskirt with the casing and ties.

Bodice pieces interlined with bleached muslin.

It's taken days for the rain to stop and now the sun is a bit too bright, but here is one photo from last night before the rain started again...

Here are photos I took this morning with the bright sun but I think you can see enough to appreciate this wonderful voile fabric.  Of course, the gown should be worn for a morning walk on a sunny spring day!



The collar is 2 layers of lace sewn into the bodice following the curve of the pattern piece and a third layer of lace and antique gold braid stitched to the outside edge.



Some pretty roses at the collar back just to pick up another color in the fabric.

 

A net lace sleeve based on the Manet painting and some antique gold braid.



Fabric roses made with the Clover Sweetheart Rose tool and purple satin roses in the center.



The original pattern called for a longer length below the overskirt back casing and ties.  I chose to double the fabric to create a soft ruffle effect and then added a border band which buttons onto the sides and back with 6 buttons.  Most of the band doesn't show when the drape is down but I found out it's nice to keep everything pretty when the wind is blowing.

What It Is:  The Manet Gown

The Challenge:  #16 Terminology

Fabric:  80/20 Cotton/Poly Voile

Pattern:  Truly Victorian 326, 221, 420

Year:  1882

Notions:  Grograin ribbons for underskirt and overskirt ties, buttons, lace, braid, satin roses

How historically accurate is it?  Close in design and extremely close to the painting in feel, but the fabrics are not accurate.

Hours to complete?  14 hours

First Worn:  Will be worn with the hat from Challenge #10 Art and the parasol for Challenge #17 Yellow on 9/15.

Total Cost:  Fabric $4.29 a yard for voile, $2.00 a yard for underskirt, $4.00 a yard for muslin interlining, notions, lace was scraps from another project = $50

 

Now it's time to cover a parasol with gold silk!

Love always,

Jeanette





Costuming at Costume College 2014 - Part 1 Thursday and Friday

Where do I start??!!  Even if you are new to costuming you will soon hear about Costume College, the 3-day event hosted by the Costumer's Guild West, Inc. and held in early August in California.  It has classes, events, socializing, tours, shopping, and fun!  It has everything a costumer wants no matter your passion.  People come from all over the world!  I truly believe that every costumer should attend at least once.  It is a memorable experience!

I wanted to attend Costume College to meet the wonderful people I've met online; the seamstresses, bloggers, people who inspire and share, and who participate in this fun world of history and fantasy.  I also wanted to completely immerse myself in the events and socializing and pure enjoyment of wearing the costumes I've spent hours creating.  There were 5 events where costumes could be worn although many wore them throughout the weekend.  Kay, my friend and Costume College roommate, is a wonderful costumer and accomplished seamstress.  Kay and I and our husbands have taken the Victorian Dance Cruise together and Kay participates in costume events monthly.  Since she operates her own antique mall (lucky lady!) she doesn't have much time for sewing or planning.  Kay and I talked just briefly about our Costume College plans and I made some of my costume decisions based on what she was bringing.  Since Costume College has been held for over a decade there are many people who know each other well and even plan mini costume themes for the events.  Not to worry!  Whatever you wear you will fit right in and you will have the time of your life!

Event #1 - The Pool Party, Thursday Evening

Since I participate in the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenges and the theme for the Pool Party is Tike Chic Darlings! I plan a 1930s Beach Pyjamas costume which will work for both the party and a HSF Challenge.  With 5 costume events and only 2 suitcases I have to plan carefully and think that I can also wear this costume when I fly home.  I've learned 3 things about costuming:

1.  Always buy more fabric and trim than you think you will need.

2.  Always have a back-up costume so that you don't get stressed out when time gets tight or plans change.

3.  Create costumes that truly inspire you so they have more possibility of getting finished.

Getting ready for Costume College was a serious practice in #2.  Kay had decided to wear her Victorian Bathing Suit and since my flight was arriving late Thursday I needed something that I could put on right out of the suitcase.  So what will I wear?

In 2008 I was inspired by this plate in Victorian Fashions & Costumes From Harper's Bazar 1867 - 1898.  It is a beach and bathing dress scene from the cover July 4, 1885.

The costume on the left inspired me to re-create it even though I had no plans or place to wear it at the time.  Simplicity 2890 was my base pattern.

The finished suit:

Then I studied the bonnet.....

...and thought it looked like a modern-day baseball cap.  I made a muslin mock-up of a cap that could slide over a baseball cap and tie on.

And here was the final style.

Since I had no plans to wear this costume, when someone wanted to buy it from me I sold it and shipped it away.  When I was going to the Victorian Dance Cruise and needed a Victorian Bathing Suit I wrote the purchaser and asked her if she wanted to sell it back to me.  She hadn't worn it, I bought it back, and packed it into storage when I took a new position out of state.  When the Cruise happened I couldn't get it out of storage, and bought a ready-made VBS.

So after all this time....after all the travels....the multiple owners.....this little costume got to be worn and enjoyed at Costume College 2014!

Even though my airport shuttle was late, and I was late, I still had a great time with the other ladies who chose Victorian bathing suits!

Event #2 - Ice Cream Social, Friday Evening

 

Friday was a heavenly day!  I toured the FIDM Museum spending time in the Helen Larson Exhibit of corsets/stays and the silhouette created for different gowns, the television costume exhibit including all the gowns and uniforms/suits from the court scene of Downton Abbey, the archives where I saw the workings for the 2018 exhibit, and many other stunning and educational items.  I could have gone home that day and felt that my trip to California was worthwhile!

 

But, of course, I have an evening event!  The Ice Cream Social - Club Ice where "For two hours only, Salon F will magically turn into Club Ice, the hippest place in this or any other galaxy.  Wear your most outrageous party outfit..."  Sounded perfect for the most outrageous outfit I have ever made - my Avatar inspired 19th century gown made for an online costume contest in 2010.

 

In James Cameron's movie (part 2 due in 2016!) The Na' vi are a peaceful race who are forced to defend their planet and lifestyle from invaders.  They are blue-skinned with zebra-type markings and glittered lines over their faces.

Neytiri, the heroine, wears purple leggings when she rides her banshee.  

 

The thought behind this costume was - What would Neytiri wear if she lived in the 19th century?  It should, of course, be from the Natural Form Era, with colors she would love. 

 

These were my fabric choices...

...and this was the final gown.

And like the Victorian Bathing Suit, this costume was finally going to be worn!  The theme of the 2014 Costume College was Finishing Touches:  The Art & Craft of Accessories.  I'm a huge fan of and believer in accessories.  They provide the perfect touch!  (This is why this blog is called The Perfect Touch!)  I believe in accessories from head to toe!

 

For the Club Ice event I create some ice by adding crystals to a plain banshee-inspired tiara and wearing the tiara with a three chain rhinestone headpiece and purple braided hairpiece.

No bling.



Lots of bling!

Neytiri is a pro with a bow, so I added feathers and satin ribbon to a child-size bow and arrow which could hang from a chatelaine.

Down to the toes....with purple suede shoes with some bling added and zebra-inspired stockings.

Ohhh, look at all those Club Ice shoes!

Here is the complete Avatar gown for the Ice Cream Social.  What you can't see is the gold eyeliner (the Na' vi have gold eyes) and the blue shadow markings on my face.  Make up, the ultimate accessory!

Kay had purchased early entry into the Marketplace and headed there while I was dressing.  You can see that the corselet laces up the back and even though I started the lacing with the corselet on backward, when I tried to turn it around something was wrong and I was stuck!  Never fear at Costume College!  I headed downstairs and asked the first costumers I saw to help me which they graciously did!  If you are reading this - Thank You, again!!  You are the perfect example of the wonderful people who attend Costume College!

 

Kay and I end our first full day at Costume College in smiles!

Part 2 Saturday will be next!

Love always,

Jeanette



















Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15 - The Great Outdoors

My life is like a stroll on the beach...

as near to the edge as I can go.

Thoreau

 

I've read studies that being close to the water makes most people feel safe and calm.  There is something about the flow and freedom of the ocean or lake that makes me dream.  So for this HSF Challenge - The Great Outdoors - I chose a time of change and pushing the limits, the 1920s and 1930s, and something for the beach, beach pyjamas.

 

There is a lot of documentation and photographs for the full-legged style of beach pyjamas including this blog by The Dreamstress when she created her Deco Mermaid style:

http://thedreamstress.com/2012/09/page/3/

 

The colors of this vintage style range from cool to hot, the fabrics from mild to wild.

 For my beach pyjamas I'm using Folkwear Pattern 252.  I have a piece of floral fabric that works well with my late 1930s-style sandals and a coordinating piece of solid fabric.

 The cotton floral fabric was a nice piece I had in the stash but there were only 2-1/2 yards.  The cotton peach fabric coordinates nicely and is inspired by this similar style:

 So I could make the bodice and collar out of one fabric and the yoke and legs out of another.  I draped the dressform to help with my decision.

Even when I decided to make the lower portion from the floral fabric I still had to do some creative piecing as the leg portions were wider than my fabric.

 I managed to get everything cut from the fabric on hand and when I pinned it all on the dressform I was happy with the design!

Most of the sewing is very straightforward using a variety of seam finishes.  The edging of both the collar and sash called for a "picot hem" which was described in the instructions.  After turning the fabric edge in 1/8" and pressing, a medium width zig-zag stitch is made close to the edge.  When the thread pulls itself it creates a pretty scalloped edge.  It worked beautifully on the collar edge!

The sash is a combination of both fabrics.  The edges are pressed in and then stitched along the edge with wrong sides together.  The floral fabric was a bit heavier and the edge didn't scallop as much as it did with the peach fabric but the finished edge is still pretty with the zig-zag stitch.  As you can see, I believe in pins!.

A little bit of floral fabric added to my straw gardening hat and I'm ready for my beach adventure next January!  Here I've also added an embellished straw bag which I found at a flea market.  I'm mixing eras just a bit but I love the overall feel and I hope you do too!

This photo is in honor of the recent Downton Abbey photoshoot.  Can you spot the historical error?

 

Ready for the beach?  Let's go!

Love always,

Jeanette



Historical Sew Fortnightly
What It Is:  1930s Beach Pyjamas
The Challenge:  #15 The Great Outdoors
Fabric:  Cotton
Pattern:  Folkwear 252
Year:  1920s and 1930
Notions:  Thread, snaps, hooks and bars
How historically accurate is it?  Pattern based on vintage designs and fabric with vintage-inspired colors
Hours to complete?  6 hours
First Worn:  For these photos, but made for the Victorian Dance Cruise in January 2015
Total Cost:  Fabric 5 yards = $15.00

P.S.  The error is the plastic water bottle!