The Perfect Touch

Monday, March 21, 2016

The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #12 - Re-Do

December – Re-Do: It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges. - The Dreamstress

Finally! My December 2015 Challenge and my 39th completed Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge! But it almost didn't happen....

In the spirit of keeping things simple I decide to add to what was my greatest challenge in all of 2015 - Out of Your Comfort Zone. This was the June 2015 Challenge and I made my first-ever-and-scared-to-death-to-do-it Regency gown. I wore it to Costume College that summer and even taught a class wearing the gown since I was teaching how to make ribbon flower pansies and I had decorated my hat with those flowers.

June 2015 Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge - Our Of Your Comfort Zone

This is the blog post for that Challenge:

http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2015/09/historical-sew-monthly-challenge-6-out.html

My inspiration for this Regency gown was an ensemble from the Kyoto Costume Institute.

There may be a day where I will encourage my husband to join me in this era, but that day is not now. I do, however, want to create a Spencer - a short jacket. The pattern I used for the gown is a complete wardrobe and has a wonderful Spencer pattern with options for two different collars, a peplum, and oversleeves. The pattern is Regency Wardrobe by La Mode Bagatelle.

Being short on time and long on a stash fabric of embroidered linen that I purchased from the same costumer who sold me the white linen for the gown, I go immediately into a final sewing.

All pieces and lining cut and ready.

Lining for front. Notice the 3/4" shortness of the front piece? That happened with the outer layer as well and I still don't know why, but I simply tapered the lower edge into the side piece and made a note to revise if I make this pattern again. Note to self - always make a mock-up.

Lining back.

Tabs for sleeves.

Pieces ready for assembly onto the main body of the Spencer - lower band, peplum, collar with tassel, lined sleeves with lace and tabs.

Collar ready for assembly to the main bodice.

Collar basted to bodice.

Lining attached.

Back with collar.

Front with collar.

Lower band is added, peplum attached, and band lining stitched in place.

Attach the sleeves, some hand finishing because there wasn't time to be historically accurate and hand sew ALL THE THING, and I have a pretty pink Spencer for my Regency gown. I really love the color and in different lighting it changes to a beautiful dusty rose color.

At this point it's the holidays, work assignments, cold weather, and a determination on my part to have some wonderful photos of this ensemble being worn. When I wore the gown I was nervous as it was completely 'out of my comfort zone' as the named Challenge. Although many people saw it at Costume College I didn't receive one comment about the gown. When I finally posted it in the Challenge album there wasn't a single comment and only 9 'likes'. While still hesitating to wear, photo, and post my final Challenge for 2015 I create a two-tone feather inspired by this portrait.

I clipped the feathers off each side of two different color feathers and then ladder stitched them together. It worked well and I see other multi-colored feathers in my future!

My husband has graciously agreed to be a photographer for a day and I ready everything. Then it rains. While combing the stash for a fabric for my next project I spy this lonely little remnant and decide it is the perfect color for a reticule for my ensemble and the La Mode Bagatelle pattern already contains a wonderful design. So as to not lose my nerve about the photo shoot, I make up this pretty reticule.

The exterior and the lining and my go-to tool for sewing points - a wooden chopstick.

Thread the ribbon completely around from one side...

Thread a second ribbon completely around from the other side and knot the ends.

Pull the ribbons and you have a pretty reticule to carry your cell phone.

It is now March 21st, the second day of spring and the weeping willow tree in our front yard is in full bloom. It is clear and sunny but very windy and my husband and I enjoy a spring day with me in a very spring-like Regency gown and accessories. Thank you, hubby!!

Historical Sew Fortnightly

What It Is: Regency Spencer and Accessories
The Challenge: 2015 #12 - Re-Do
Fabric: Linen and cotton lining
Pattern: La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe
Year: 1812
Notions: Thread, tassel, frog closures, lace
How historically accurate is it? Primarily machine stitched with hand finishing.
Hours to complete? 8 hours
First Worn: Today for photos.
Total Cost: $18

Love always,

Jeanette

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #2 - Tucks and Pleating

February – Tucks & Pleating – make a garment that features tucks and pleating for the shape or decoration

Can you even imagine how dull and boring most vintage clothing would be without the beautiful gathers, ruffles, smocking, tucks, and pleating that creates such interest? I'm forever surprised about the way seamstresses have imagined and manipulated fabric into such awesome shapes.

For the Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #2 - Tucks and Pleating I used a pattern recreated from an original 1920's instructional article.

The original 1920's article was written by Ruth Wyeth Spears, considered one of the original founders of the Do-It-Yourself movement. From the early 1900s through the 1950s she wrote and published articles for creative instruction and inspiration from fashion to household goods. She published a magazine called Illustrated Home Sewing which contained many instructions for hat-making including the one I'm creating here.

The hat requires minimal fabric and I use some scrap cotton for the base hat and scrap taffeta for trim. The instructions require that I cut a circular crown, side crown, brim, and fan. I wanted the tucked area of the side crown to be made from the taffeta trim so I adjusted my fabrics accordingly.

All the base cotton pieces are sewn and pressed well according to the instructions. The brim is sewn and then tucks created, sewn, and pressed open and flat. The same is done for the trim piece on the side crown. The fan required a piece double the height of the one I made, but I wanted something a bit more petite and that is what I made. It is simply a long tube of fabric sewn on all four sides. Then a slit is cut in the back so the piece can be turned inside out. After pressing, I made pleats, put a pin through the pleats, and then fanned the pleats around the pin to create the half circle fan. Here are all pieces ready for the final assembly.

Everything is sewn by machine except the crown and side crown seam. The side crown is gathered and then hand-stitched to the crown. In no time I have my very first 1920's cloche!

The three tucks on the brim and side crown trim and the pleated fan create all the interest for this iconic hat.

Since it's a hat, I have to take some photos outdoors where one would usually see the hat being worn and I love the fabric combination in the light. This was meant to be a throw-away practice piece, but I think I will have to make a spring dress to go with it. It's just too fun to toss!