The Historical Sew Monthly Challenge #1 - Foundations - Ribbon Flowers

Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 was an incredible experience!  While there was some discussion about the Challenges continuing into 2015, the great news is that it will continue on a more limited schedule and is now the Historical Sew Monthly 2015. 

With over 2,000 members on the facebook page and even more through the Dreamstress' website, it is the hopes that a monthly rather than the previous twice-per-month Challenge will allow for more participation.  If you are interested in joining this group of wonderful and creative people, here are the links:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HistoricalSewFortnightly/

http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2015/

With January being a busy travel month I wasn't sure I would be able to participate until I read the first challenge:
January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

While this could mean a literal "foundation" such as an undergarment, I came to feel that it could also mean the knowledge and skill required to create a period outfit.  I've had to learn many new skills as the foundation for my costume creations and decided I would address that learning in this Challenge.

One of the historic events in the western United States is the Durango Heritage Festival in Colorado.  It began in 2008 and with the historic buildings, narrow-gauge railway, and western history, the Festival has become a popular attraction.  In 2015 the Festival will host an English Garden Victorian Ball and the ladies are discussing creating gowns based on a variety of flowers.  Sounds beautiful and fun!

I've spent quite a bit of time teaching myself the art of ribbon flowers - an art very popular in the Victorian period.

The flowers have adorned bonnets and hats....

 

 

and gowns based on historical fashionplates....

hairpieces..

 

 

and even shoes.

 

So while traveling with a wonderful group on the Victorian Dance Cruise and many of them talking about their flower gown for the Durango Heritage Festival, I shared what I had learned with them and we all made ribbon roses and leaves.  We had a wonderful time!

 

 

Yes, even the gentlemen made roses and leaves!  It was so enjoyable to see the flowers show up on shoes for the Fantasy Masquerade Ball, on hats, on hairpieces, on skirts and even my own shoes got a makeover for the Diamond Ball where I wore my All That Glitters ballgown from HSF 2014 Challenge #24.

 

If you would like to learn to make the roses and leaves as well as some other ribbon flowers, you can find the photos in my facebook albums:

 

Gathered and Vintage Roses:  https://www.facebook.com/jeanette.m.murray/media_set?set=a.10202825630298735.1073741832.1140526109&type=3

 

Leaves:  https://www.facebook.com/jeanette.m.murray/media_set?set=a.10202812387367670.1073741831.1140526109&type=3

 

Dogwood Blossoms:  https://www.facebook.com/jeanette.m.murray/media_set?set=a.10202833825903620.1073741833.1140526109&type=3

 

Pansies:  https://www.facebook.com/jeanette.m.murray/media_set?set=a.10202810596282894.1073741829.1140526109&type=3

 

Please enjoy creating your own beautiful ribbon flowers and I hope these photos give you a beautiful foundation for your costume!

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Ribbon Flowers

The Challenge:  Foundations

Fabric:  Ribbon

Pattern:  None

Year:  Any

Notions:  Thread, net or buckram, stamens

How historically accurate is it?  Very

Hours to complete?  A single rose and leaf can be completed in 15 minutes, a pansy or dogwood blossom in 20 minutes.

First Worn:  We all wore our creations the same week.

Total Cost:  A single rose can be done with just a yard of ribbon costing less than $1.

 

With love,

Jeanette









Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #24 - All That Glitters

 

 

A little thought and a little kindness are worth more than a great deal of money.

John Ruskin

 

 

Costuming Can Be Expensive!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeanette Murray

 

Right??  And after all those hours and expenses to create your costume, there is the cost of the event!!  When I made my first costume for Halloween 2007 I hadn't sewn since high school and had no idea what I was doing but had an idea of what I wanted to make.  Without the skills to start from the beginning I bought a 1970s used wedding gown on eBay and with the addition of a circle overskirt, a corselet, some red ribbon, and a covered straw hat and parrot parasol, I made this - my first costume and my version of Mary Poppins Jolly Holiday gown:

 

Later I found another inexpensive wedding gown and used the beautiful ruffled skirt for this Victorian Natural Form Era dinner gown:

In 2010 I upcycled a cocktail dress for the skirt for my Tombstone Birdcage Saloon costume where I was Carrie Cardinal.  I won 1st Place Saloon Girl at the costume contest (I still believe I am the oldest saloon girl ever at 60 years old).

 

I am still a firm believer in recycling, upcycling, using thrift store finds, bed sheets, and whatever else will give you the impression you are seeking while being gentle on the pocketbook.

 



In 2012 I was going to make a gown for a Victorian Ball and had found an inspiration gown that I loved.

 

While searching eBay for fabric I found a prom dress that had the bodice style and color I wanted and I knew another upcycle was my plan.

 

 

Ebay also yielded a beautiful beaded sari panel,

...and an imperfect embroidered and beaded/sequined net remnant for an underskirt.

I now have a total of $55 spent for this gown and am thrilled!  When the prom dress arrives I dismember it into a lined full length skirt portion, an unlined full length skirt portion which was bustled on the front of the original skirt, the bodice, and a sheer overlay.

 

In the stash I find some silver satin for an underskirt and using Truly Victorian TV261 1885 Four Gore Underskirt pattern I make the base which fits beautifully over a lobster tail bustle.

 

Now it's December 2012, the Victorian Ball is in January, and I can see I won't have time to finish the gown.  I attend the ball in another gown, have a great time, and the unfinished gown goes into a plastic bin and is stored.

 

Fast forward to November 2014 when the plastic bin is opened and the project continues for this Challenge because the one thing I know this gown will do is glitter!

 

Using the beaded net, I make another TV261 skirt with a single piece of fabric the circumference of the skirt hem leaving the portion open where the back bustle draping fits.

Using some of the unlined skirt portion from the original dress I cut the bustle draping section and fit it onto the net, add the bustling ties, a waistband, and the first overskirt is finished.

 

The beaded sari section is the length of the skirt and 16" wide at the lower edge.  It's really beautiful with sequins, seed beads, rhinestones, and small pearls.  I cut a piece of unlined fabric to line the sari section and hand hem the edges.

Using the lined skirt section of the original gown, I open one seam and resew the edges, drape the overskirt in an asymmetrical design, add bustling ties and pleats and a waistband.

The bodice has a corset style back and some beautiful pleating and all I have to do is cut the lower edge into the correct shape and hem.

With all the pieces on the dressform I drape and pin and pinch and hang all kinds of lace and trims and the sheer fabric from the original dress onto the bodice to get the look I want.  In the end I make shoulder pieces from the portions I cut from the pleated bodice hem and with all the glitter of the necklace, earrings, tiara, bracelets, and silver gloves and shoes, I decide the gown has all that I need.  Here is my finished glittery aubergine ball gown!

 

 

 

 

And here we are, the last Challenge of the Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014.  I admit I'm feeling emotional about this - in a good way, of course!  I've learned so much about history, historical costume, sewing techniques, and also about myself.  There were 24 Challenges and I completed all and several of them twice.   I've surprised myself by staying on schedule and stretching in ways I didn't believe possible.  But the greatest gift of HSF '14 was the people I've met and friends I've made.  A truly wonderful experience and an amazing year!

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Victorian Ball Gown

The Challenge:  #24 All That Glitters

Fabric:  Satin, taffeta, embroidered/beaded net

Pattern:  Truly Victorian TV261

Year:  1885

Notions:  Thread

How historically accurate is it?  Made from a modern-day upcycled prom dress to an historically correct silhouette.

Hours to complete?  15 hours

First Worn:  Victorian Diamond Ball on the Victorian Dance Cruise late January 2015

Total Cost:  $55 for prom dress, imperfect embroidered net remnant, beaded sari panel

 

 

Photos in January!

Love always,

Jeanette



Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #23 - Modern History

If we see you smoking we will assume you are on fire and take appropriate action.

 ~Douglas Adams

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #22 was Gentlemen and I made a smoking jacket for Patrick.  He's going to wear it for our late night get-togethers with friends on the Victorian Dance Cruise next month.

He liked how comfortable it is and I thought it would be fun to have one of my own.  And not just for the cruise, but for everyday modern wear.  Something different than my normal sweatshirt and sweatpants would be a welcome change.

I used the Folkwear 238 pattern designed for 1930s style.  It contains all men's and ladies' sizes in the same package.

 

Where I had used a black cotton matelassé for Patrick's contrast collar, cuffs, and pocket trim, I used a modern polyester fabric for mine.  The fabric had been given to a friend by his friend who had sewn custom home furnishings, my friend gave it (and some other treasures) to me (everyone knows I'll take any and all free fabric), and there was just enough for the trim on my smoking jacket.  This is a close-up of my trim fabric and the fun pins I found at a craft store which will become my necklace to wear with my smoking jacket during the Victorian Dance Cruise.

 

Isn't the little thimble just perfect for a necklace for someone who sews?

 

Since this is for modern wear, here are my photos with a modern dilemma - learning to use a new phone!

 

Okay, this shouldn't be too difficult....

 

hmmmm.....a little more difficult than I thought.

 

All right!  All figured out!

 

The primary use of all smart phones - the selfie!  With eyes closed, of course!

 

Now for some photos of the puppy, Patrick, lunch, the fallen leaves,...well you know how it goes.

 

Oops, almost forgot - the back of my new modern smoking jacket.

Love,

Jeanette

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Ladies' Smoking Jacket

The Challenge:  #23 Modern History

Fabric:  Cotton twill and polyester trim

Pattern:  Folkwear 238

Year:  1930s for modern wear

Notions:  Thread

How historically accurate is it?  Use of modern fabric with historic styling.

Hours to complete?  5 hours

First Worn:  Photos and January 2015 Event

Total Cost:  Several yards for the body and free trim, total less than $10.

 

Since you've read this far I'll show you my newest little auction find for this costume.  Squeee!  Aren't they pretty with all their embroidery, beads, and sequins?

 

 







Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #22 - Choice - Gentlemen

Quitting smoking is easy, I've done it hundreds of times.

Mark Twain

 

Imagine that when dinner is over our gentleman has retired to the smoking room.  He has put on his smoking jacket, his symbol of a time of leisure and reflection, and quiet meditation.  He still looks distinguished in this now iconic casual dress.  As far back as the 17th century when spices, tobacco, coffee and silks began flowing from India, Asia, and the Americas, our gentlemen have taken these habits and dress.  The smoking jacket, a kind of short robe or dressing gown made with luxurious fabrics, bright colors, and bold trim, survived into the mid 20th century.

 

This wonderful page will lead you through a brief history and pictures of the smoking jacket:

http://coolmaterial.com/style/the-history-of-the-smoking-jacket/

Some modern famous wearers include Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Hugh Hefner, Fred Astaire who was buried in one, and the Third Doctor of Doctor Who.

 

It's now time for my gentleman, my husband Patrick, to wear his own symbol of leisure.  "But I don't smoke!", says he.  So I tell him it's also fitting for a late evening drink and he brings out the Maker's Mark, his favorite Kentucky Bourbon.

 

The basic smoking jacket appears little changed through the years and I use Folkwear 238 pattern for both gentlemen and ladies.

I have a deep rust cotton twill and a black cotton matelassé in the fabric stash and cut out the pattern pieces.

Assembly is very straightforward and Patrick is ready for that bourbon.

"Here I am.  What am I supposed to do?"

 

Here is Patrick with his new smoking jacket looking all the dashing gentleman at leisure.  No Smoking.

 

 

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly

 

What It Is:  Gentleman's Smoking Jacket

The Challenge:  #22 - Choice - Gentlemen

Fabric:  Cotton twill, cotton matelassé

Pattern:  Folkwear 238

Year:  1880 plus or minus 70 years

Notions:  thread

How historically accurate is it?  The use of bold and bright colors, the shawl collar, and the overall impression are accurate.  Historically the fabrics would have perhaps been richer silks and velvets.

Hours to complete?  5 hours due to the amount of hand sewing

First worn:  Photos and for the pajama party at the Victorian Dance Cruise in January.

Total Cost:  The fabric was all in the stash but requires just under 3 yards for a large size.

 

Love always,

Jeanette