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YouTube Companion Video: https://youtu.be/OAsTyfktkGA
The active women of the Victorian era participated in bicycling, golf, racquet sports, and riding astride rather than sidesaddle. This trend continued and with it the trend toward bifurcated garments to make the activities easier for participation and, in some cases, safer. The active garment of the Victorian and Edwardian eras often gave the illusion of wearing a long skirt.
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There were patents for these versatile garments.
And while many of the designs were intent on keeping the pants-wearing a secret...
there were those which definitely did not!
Elsa Sciaparelli. Born 1890 in Italy. A fashion designer and greatest rival of Coco Chanel, French fashion designer born in 1883. Elsa Schiaparelli was a prominent figure in fashion and art between the two World Wars.
In 1931 Elsa Sciaparelli caused a scandal during a fabric shopping trip to London wearing culottes. It was obviously no secret that these were a form of pants undisguised by panels or a wraparound skirt.
The professional tennis player, Lili de Alvarez, wore a Schiaparelli design at Wimbledon that same year. Reporters at the Daily Mail declared "she should be soundly beaten".
The Pattern and Fabric
Since interchangeable daywear separates are the core of my 1930s wardrobe, and comfy is key, I'm inspired by Elsa Sciaparelli and go in search of a pattern. Lady Marlowe Patterns on Etsy has a fabulous selection of patterns from this period and I'm loving #7299. "1933 sports culotte with relaxed fit and a divided overskirt." Also titled 1930s Sports Trousers Culotte/Split Overskirt. The cover illustrations with contrast colors and prints is so fun! And there are those 1930s polka dots!
There are just 7 main pattern pieces: Trousers Front, Trousers Back, Skirt Front, Skirt Back, Skirt Side, Outside Belt, and Inside Belt.
The fabrics I have are a black cotton with a small red print, and a red cotton with a black printed overall design.
Two Trousers Backs and two Trousers Fronts are cut from the red cotton.
The skirt pieces - 2 Fronts, 2 Backs, and 2 Sides - and the outer belt are cut from the black cotton.
Sewing the Culottes
The Assembling and Sewing Guide are the original vintage instructions and just one page with numbered steps and line diagrams. It's a simple and very clever technique and I'll keep the detail simple. The inner leg seams and center seams of the Trousers Fronts and Backs and are joined.
Darts are sewn in the Skirt Sides at the upper edge.
This is where the assembly technique is so creative. The Skirt Sides are actually the sides of the trousers as well. The Skirt Fronts are sewn to the Skirt Sides joining in the Trousers Fronts leaving a seam opening for the final garment closure.
The skirt center back seam is sewn from the upper edge to a mark as indicated on the pattern.
The the Skirt Sides and Skirt Backs are sewn joining in the Trouser Backs.
And after quickly sewing those simple long seams here is the fun culottes ready for final finishing.
Back with center sewn sewn part-way down.
The lower edge of the trousers and skirt are hemmed. The side edges both front and back of the skirt are also hemmed.
The upper edge of the left skirt front is finished with a bias underfacing.
And the left side opening of the trousers gets a narrow hem.
2" wide belting is recommended for the Inside Belt, but I compromised with a ribbon used on an interior belt for my 1916 skirt and an extension of plain fabric. I sewed the darts into my Inside Belt and sewed it to the upper edge of the culottes.
Hooks and eyes are attached where the Inside Belt edges will meet and also where the skirt front will overlap and attach to the trousers.
At this point belt straps can be created and attached. I've omitted those since the design with the inner belt snugs the culottes tightly to the waist. Instead I create a fabric belt with a friction buckle which will just be worn at the waist. I can add belt straps later if I choose.
The Finished 1930s Culottes
A Perfect Touch - The Tie
You know I'm all about the details and as I was planning the culottes ensemble and the Sciaparelli inspiration, I started an eBay and Etsy search for any Sciaparelli items that might add to my 1930s wardrobe. One day an incredible item came up. A Sciaparelli tie with a nautical theme! What could be more perfect for a 1930s themed voyage on the Queen Mary 2? The tie arrives and I love it!
Success!
A Perfect Touch - The 1930s Knitted Vest
I had seen so many photos of fabulous knitted vests of the 1930s and wanted to add one to my wardrobe. I was finding some wonderful patterns but my knitting skills are dismal. Enter Maike of Engineering Knits.
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She sent this photo which sent my heart aflutter.
We talked about colors and soon I received samples.
Maike sent progress photos and I knew this piece would be an absolute favorite in my 1930s wardrobe.
And Maike is finished! The vest is phenomenal!
The vest arrives by mail and I'm so amazed by Maike's skill and completely in love with this vest inspired by a piece of history.
Perfect! Thank you so much, Maike! You and this beautiful vest are both amazing!
A Perfect Touch - The Sport Shoes and Fun Stockings
My go-to guide for 1930s inspiration shows a pair of shoes for sport ensembles.
I've found a pair of dance shoes by Aris Allen. A casual canvas wingtip in black and herringbone with a choice of laces. These will be fun with all my casual ensembles and perfect for the daytime dance lessons.
The 1930s Culottes Ensemble is Ready
All items for this ensemble packed and travelled well and are usable for a variety of looks. Here are the black rayon bra and tap pants, the red satin Kestos garter belt, the Pamela Mann stockings and Aris Alen shoes, the black velveteen hat and bag, and since I'll be having a day of dancing and sports, a red snood to tame my hair for the day.
A day that started at the pool and table tennis area on the Queen Mary 2.
And ended at the Queen Mary 2 Sports Wall dedicated to the bygone times on the original Queen Mary.
I hope you enjoyed the making of the Lady Marlowe culottes and the sharing of all the accessories that became part of this 1930s ensemble. Thank you for being here!
Hugs,
Jeanette
Research links for items mentioned in this blog post:
