Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #20 - Alternative Universe

We've got a steampunk revolution
We're tired of all your so-called evolution
We've darted back to 1886
Don't ask us why; that's how we get our kicks

Out with the new
In with the old
Out with the new
In with the old

 

Lyrics, Abney Park, Steampunk Revolution

 

 

Steampunk:  Science fiction set in an alternate version of the historic past, especially 19th-century England, and involving advanced technologies usually based on steam power.

The creativity of Steampunk, an alternative universe where the internal combustion engine was never invented, extends to literature, movies, music, art, home goods design, and fashion.  The basis for Steampunk fashion is 19th century and from there the creativity that is Steampunk expands.  Accessories to a 19th Century costume can be as imaginative as you desire to portray your persona.

I've crossed into the Steampunk alternative universe for several events.  In 2007, as I was just beginning to sew my own costumes, I purchased this black silk and silver metallic brocade late-bustle gown from an online retailer who had a great reputation in sewing Victorian costumes.  I wore it on a Victorian Dance Cruise in early 2008.

So when I attended my first Steampunk event in May 2011, the World Steam Expo, I decided to accessorize this gown first for the Victorian High Tea.  I added hot pink fishnet fingerless gloves, this great necklace,

and made a teacup hat with a vintage pink veiling.

This photo is Steampunk Boba Fett escorting the sweet little old lady (me) across the big bad Universe.  Such a gentleman!

A little later that day I revised accessories adding this fabulous Gatling gun hat by Thomas Willeford, a Steampunk artist:

and with a facial bindi and a few more accessories I became a Time Portal Guardian.

So when I received notice that the dance mistress of our Victorian Dance Cruise was performing at Steampunk unLimited at the Strasburg Rail Road in Lancaster, Pennsylvania at the end of September I knew that I wanted to attend.  I also knew that it was perfectly appropriate that I keep tradition and Steampunk the black and silver gown once again.

In my stash is some black dupioni silk and a silver metallic brocade that is a very close match to this gown.  My plan had always been to make a ballgown bodice to wear with the skirt and now is the perfect time.  In searching online for sewing patterns for a unique bodice suitable for a Steampunk Victorian Ball I find a pattern from Harlots and Angels that will be perfect.  I learned the basics of corsetry just this past spring and am ready to tackle the new pattern.

The e-pattern goes together very well, and I pin my pieces onto the dressform to see how the pattern assembles.

A few adjustments against the corset pattern I have already made which fits me perfectly, and I'm ready to sew the black/white striped cotton lining, the white coutil, and the black silk and brocade.  I've ordered a gunmetal busk, gunmetal grommets, and black lacing and I'm nervous but excited to sew the new corset bodice.  But I'm pressed for time as this next photo is taken on Monday, September 22nd and I leave on Thursday evening, September 25th.  On one hand it seems crazy to put myself in this spot (but I can always wear the other bodice), but sometimes it's good not to have too much time to anguish over a project.

Once the busk is in I'm breathing easier.   There isn't extra fabric to recut anything so no mistakes allowed!  And I'm still contemplating how to/if I should trim.

Before I start to sew the next panels I have a brainstorm and decide to mimic the revers on the sides of the skirt.  I cut 4 extra of panel 2 in black silk, create piping identical to that on the skirt, sandwich the piping between the black panels and sew it all with panel 2 to create revers.

Now here is where things get really crazy.  On Thursday I'm still setting grommets and finishing the shoulder straps.  Which means I haven't tried the finished corset bodice for fit.  Everything is packed (I think) when my puppy, Tasha, starts to act strangely about her right ear.  In the chaos of those last minutes I've forgotten to pack my other bodice!  So as my roommate, Randi, and I arrive in Pennsylvania on Friday afternoon I'm madly lacing my new corset bodice and sewing the jet buttons on the revers and shoulder straps.  We manage to get ready and catch the first steam locomotive train ride just in the nick of time!

The Victorian Ball is a huge success and we dance all evening!  I've had an excellent time!  And did the corset bodice fit?  Yes!

 
Here are photos I took when I got back home so you could see some of the detail.

There is a modesty panel under the lacing and the panels below the lacing are left open.  Corset flossing where the steel boning ends throughout the corset bodice.

Piped revers to mimic the skirt.  Striped lining.

Historical Sew Fortnightly

What It Is:  Steampunk Ballgown Corset Bodice
The Challenge:  #20 Alternative Universe
Fabric:  Silk dupioni, metallic brocade, cotton for lining, corset coutil
Pattern:  Harlots and Angels Versailles Corset
Year:  Steampunk 1886
Notions:  Busk, grommets, steel bones, lacing, buttons, piping
How historically accurate is it?  Based on the Steampunk concept of 19th Century, it is accurate.  The sewing methods and most of the fabric are period correct.
Hours to complete?  13 hours
First Worn:  Steampunk unLimited, Strasburg, PA, September 26, 2014
Total Cost:  $100 for coutil and hardware, $35 for fabric, $6.00 buttons = $141 total

Steampunk Cinderella gets a new gown just in time for the ball!

Love always,

Jeanette



Costuming at Costume College Part 3 - Sunday

Part 1 - Thursday and Friday are here:     http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/08/costuming-at-costume-college-2014-part.html

Part 2 - Saturday is here:  http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/10/costume-college-part-2-saturday.html

Sunday dawns early and sunny as we prepare for the fourth costume event of Costume College 2014 - Breakfast Belles and Beaux.  I'm looking forward to being able to wear the black and white Tea Gown made for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge # 9 Black and White.  Here are the details:     http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/05/historical-sew-fortnightly-challenge-9_28.html

And the Costume College photos:



Love those strawberry stockings!

 

 

The Breakfast Belles and Beaux is so well attended and I have the chance to meet and spend time with so many wonderful people!

With Joan at Breakfast Belles and Beaux.

Then there is time to cruise the Market, the Scholarship sales area, the portion of the Exhibit I didn't get to see on Saturday, and then it's time for the last costume event - The Royal Ascot Tea.

 

I had been participating in a 1910s Suit-A-Long for a newly released pattern from Wearing History.  Several of us in the group, including Kay, my roommate, had agreed to wear our creations to the Tea.  Here is my post about the suit with links to the hat, corset, and underthings:    http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/10/1910s-suit-long-suit-jacket.html  

 

And here are the photos from Costume College:

 

Although the costume events are over for Costume College 2014, there is still an all day trip to the fabric district!  But that will be the next post along with all the photos I took at Costume College 2014.

 

Love always,

Jeanette

 

 



Costuming at Costume College Part 2 - Saturday

Part 1 - Thursday and Friday are here:     http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/08/costuming-at-costume-college-2014-part.html

My first costume event was in May 2007 when a group of ladies attended a Victorian Tea and Architectural Tour in Raleigh, North Carolina.  We attended dressed in full Victorian costume and had the most marvelous time!  The following day several of us visited Biltmore Estates in Asheville, North Carolina, again in full Victorian costume, and had another fabulous day!  I learned right away that costuming isn't just about the day of the event but the days, weeks, and even months before the event.  It's about the planning, researching, and talking with your friends about the event and costumes.  The days (weeks and months) of sewing and crafting and sourcing accessories and then the packing and preparation just before the event.  The event itself seems to fly by and afterward there is a mixture of happiness in an extraordinary event and a sadness that it is over.  What remains, however, are the memories and especially the photographs which allow us to relive the fun, friendship, and laughter all over again.

So even though it's almost three months since Costume College, I'm sharing my second day and remembering all that led up to that incredibly wonderful day!

Day 2 of Costume College is a day of classes for me and because of that I choose to wear something simple and comfortable.  I participated in the Sew for Victory 1940s Sew-A-Long this year.     In that event I created a reproduction of a vintage apron which I absolutely love and it will probably never see a kitchen!  This is the sketch of the 1940s transfer pattern:

This is the blog post:   http://theperfecttouchvictorian.blogspot.com/2014/04/venturing-into-new-era-hsf-challenge-8.html

I had such fun that day but didn't get one photo of myself.  I'm still learning about how important that is, so here is a photo I took today reliving that same fun day as The Perfect 1940s Housewife.

In between classes I toured the Exhibit, studied the work and collections of other costumers, visited with people I had been looking forward to meeting for literally years, and made new friends as we talked about this fun hobby we shared.

On Thursday and Friday nights I had pulled unworn costumes from the dark recesses of my closet.  And I do the same for the Saturday night Gala.  In December 2013 I was planning to attend and teach ribbon flower creation at a SASS Convention.  The Ball theme was based on the Reconciliation of the States following the Civil War.  The colors of blue and gray representing the opposing armies were my inspiration for the ballgown colors and a Harper's Bazaar fashionplate from 1872 inspired the style.

The patterns I used were from Truly Victorian:  TV416 1870s Ball Gown Bodice, and TV 216 Parisian Trained Skirt.  The bodice bertha is self drafted and just slips over the head and ties to the bodice.  With hours and hours and then more hours of sewing and pleating over 60 feet of pleats....

and then hours and hours of creating 37 ribbon flower pansies - one to represent each state in the Union in 1872 -

...the Reconciliation Ballgown is finished!

To my dismay resulting in many tears,  I have developed pneumonia and am unable to attend the Convention.  So this creation gets stored.  But when my roommate, Kay, tells me she is going to wear her blue and white Civil War era gown to the Costume College Gala, I know exactly what I will wear  - yes, my Reconciliation Ballgown!  The Saturday evening Gala at Costume College is kicked off with the Red Carpet entry where spectators line the hallways to admire, applaud and photograph the fabulous creations being worn that evening.  It is unbelievable and we have such a memorable time!  The Gala dinner is delicious, the entertainment very special, and it's the end to another perfect day at Costume College!

Next post, Day 3 Sunday!

 

Love always,

Jeanette